| Every week, we select a wine from the
store as our Insider's Pick.
We send out tasting notes to our email customers the evening
before, and have the wine open to taste at the store Thursday
and Friday from 12:00 until closing. If you purchase the wine
on the days it is tasted, you receive a 10% discount
from the bottle price, and a 15% discount if the wine is part
of a mixed case (no further discount on 1 item cases).
Below are the tasting notes from the most recent
Insider's Picks.
Dates: 07/15 | 07/08
| 07/01 | 06/24 | 06/17
| 06/10 | 06/03 | 05/27
July 15, 2010
2007 MAS DEL PERIE CAHORS 'LA ROQUE'
$22.99, $19.54/case
Dead center of summer in central Virginia may not be the most
ideal time to taste the ‘Black Wines’ of Cahors,
but this wine has been an itch that I have been just dying to
scratch since it arrived a few weeks back. In earlier times,
the intensely sturdy and uncompromising wines of Cahors rivaled
the reputation of those in Bordeaux. The threat was such that
the Bordelaise used their position downriver to hamper their
sales by applying stiff taxes to wines brought through their
port, at the time still one of the major shipping centers in
all of France. The price hikes hindered their growth, and after
the Phylloxera blight in the late 1800s, Cahors became a shadow
of their former winegrowing self. The last 30+ years has seen
considerable growth, but they are still less that 50% of what
they were producing at their height.
Malbec is the grape of choice here, producing a wine much different
than the distinctly New World and popular versions in Argentina.
Some examples still have a very old school presence to them,
desperately needing several years in the bottle to start shedding
their gum-shredding tannins. Others like this have approached
a happier medium, creating a wine that can show some pleasure
in the short term without sacrificing any of the deep, intense
flavors that make Malbec here so unique. Still absolutely doing
honor to the nickname, the intense purple color is only slightly
more opaque than your average wall paint. The first aromas are
all pencil lead, beef blood and wet charcoal, but some time
open reveals some surprisingly beautiful notes of black fruits,
cassis, violets, and spice. In the mouth the wine is big, but
not THAT big, at least not what one would expect with the reputation
of the region and the fact that in the glass it looks like it
could be used as a football player’s eye paint. The texture
is full and long, but not sweet and thick, the fruit becoming
dry very quickly on the fine textured but very persistent tannins
that hang on the palate for quite a while. Definitely ageworthy,
but not needing it, able to match up perfectly with any red
meat prepared over fire and with a bit of char to it.
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July 08, 2010
2006 SPRINGFIELD ESTATE CHARDONNAY WILD YEAST
$19.99, $16.99/case
When the Gods are dropping triple digit temperatures, I’m
guessing nobody could POSSIBLY be looking for a red wine as
the Insider’s Pick. While Chardonnay may not be the sexiest
choice out there, we scratched everyone’s itch for Ondarribi
Zuri last week, so a bit of simplicity may be in order. Plus
this wine does have its own bit of unique character to it, so
we can promise this is not your typical oak/butter Chard.
Hailing from the Robertson district of the Breede River in South
Africa, the wine is sourced from one of the cooler spots in
what is otherwise a fairly warm region. Lots of variety in soils
and microclimates allows for great diversity in wines produced,
giving wineries freedom to pursue most any winemaking preferences
and motivations. Springfield Estate tends to pursue various
new and experimental methods in their approaches for almost
all their wines in one way or another, most notably their Chardonnays.
Both this and their Reserve are made using native yeasts present
in the vineyards; the Reserve is called Methode Ancienne, referring
to the old Burgundian practice they use for this wine of doing
no filtering or stabilization in barrel. This wild yeast fermentation
is very risky, as the native yeasts can ferment inconsistently,
sometimes allowing a ‘bad’ yeast to show up and
create off flavors, or even miss fermenting at all. Proponents
believe the upside to these risks is the creation of a more
complex and distinct flavored wine; with results like this wine,
call us full fledged wild yeast fans. Unoaked and with a bit
more age than one would initially expect from a Chardonnay,
the complexity on the nose is immediately distinct, a combination
of citrus blossoms and creamy lemon curd, with slight peeks
of minerality in the background. The age is evident in the palate,
where the youthful racy acidity has pulled back to reveal a
naturally creamy and smooth texture that only the most ardent
oaky/buttery follower would ever find tart. The absence of oak
or butter also allows the natural flavors of the grape to come
through in the mouth as well, mirroring the lemon character
in the nose and intensifying it through the finish, picking
up the last bits of minerality and skin tannins towards the
end. A fantastic Chard for this kind of weather, and ideal with
all manner of seafood featuring citrus.
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July 01, 2010
2009 TXOMIN ETXANIZ GETARIAKO TXAKOLINA
(WINE ADVOCATE 90 POINTS)
$22.99, $19.54/case
Yes, the name of this wine looks like the four worst draws of
Scrabble ever, but when you push beyond that you find one of
the great examples of wine from the Basque region of Spain available.
Travelers know the region for the city of Bilbao, the Guggenheim
Museum, and the rugged coastline that, when coupled with the
mild climate, could almost be mistaken for the more undisturbed
portions of the Sonoma Coast north of San Francisco. The cuisine
is dominated by seafood, considered some of the freshest and
most spectacular in Spain if not all of Europe, and the local
white wines like this are the perfect foil.
Made from the local grape Ondarribi Zuri, you rarely see too
many of them away from the region because there just isn’t
that much vineyard space designated here, and they are consumed
so fiercely in Bilbao there just isn’t much left to ship.
Txomin Etxaniz is one of the best known of the small producers,
located just meters from the seashore and producing some of
the most bracing and exciting wines available. For a frame of
reference, think of it as the most awesome and exciting Vinho
Verde possible and you may get an idea where this wine is coming
from. Clean and light and tipping in at a paltry 11%abv, the
nose is almost as bracing as sea spray, full of green citrus
and sort of salinity. In the mouth there is a slight tingle
from the pinprick sized effervescence, but the raciness of the
natural acidity and fresh apple and lime flavors provide the
real zing here. Remember those ‘Irish Spring’ commercials
where the guy would smell the bar of soap and get doused with
a bucket of ‘cool spring water’ across the chops?
Yeah, it’s like that. Break this out with the freshest
and most simply prepared seafood you can get your hands on (shrimp,
muscles, calamari) and prepare to be floored.
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June 24, 2010
2008 STEINDORFER BLAUFRANKISCH ALTE REBEN
$23.99, $20.39/case
We usually think of Blaufrankisch wines in comparison
to grapes like Syrah for its darker fruits or Pinot Noir for
its silkier texture. This wine goes to a whole new spectrum
in the wine world, taking on the bold spice and intense fruit
of Zinfandel. We actually happened to taste this for the first
time with the distributor while we were pouring a Zinfandel
to the public not too long ago, and to a man each employee liked
this better than the Zin. One of the first things that attracted
us to this Blaufrankisch was its ability to achieve the Zin-like
spice and briary black fruits without tipping over the 14%+
alcohol level and giving the wine a heady, boozy sense. In fact,
the wine is listed at only 13%abv, and the flesh and size of
the wine shows not even the slightest notion of misplaced alcohol.
On the nose there is an incredible mix of fresh picked red berries,
black cherries and blackberries that swirl out so readily that
you almost can’t resist drinking it from the moment the
cork is pulled. Some patience earns more Pinot Noir-like subtleties
of smoke, cola, and earth behind the ever changing red fruits.
In the mouth the fruit is incredibly lush, again almost Pinot
Noir-like, but with a blast of spicy red fruit across the palate
that is just too intense to be a Pinot. The fruit is very full
but not glycerol or jammy in any way, no sense of residual sugar
or overripeness to meddle in the surprising purity and silky
deliciousness. This has become a brand new favorite for grilling
season around here, and it’s sure to be one for you too.
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June 17, 2010
2009 GEORGES VERNAY BLAH VIN DE PAYS DES COLLINES RHODANIENNES
SYRAH ROSE 'DE MIRBAUDIE'
$15.99, $13.59/case
The month of June is starting to wane, and the temperatures
outside are starting to reach the 90s with oppressive regularity,
which can only mean two things. First is our yearly Wine Warehouse
Anniversary celebration, which runs from earlier this week until
the last day of June if you hadn’t seen the email earlier
this week. Nice specials on all our wine and beer, as well as
a nice Customer Appreciation Day this coming Saturday.
The second thing is more universal in the wine world, and that
is the prime time enjoyment window for the best of the world’s
dry roses. Most of the famous French rose comes from Provence
and the Southern Rhone region of Tavel, where the land is broad
and vineyards stretch out across the horizon. You don’t
see nearly much rose originating in the Northern Rhone, where
the vineyards almost dangle from the steep banks of the river.
Space is precious and the wines are pricy, so you rarely see
much juice spared to make rose, and even more rarely see it
for a screaming good deal. But the rare is not the impossible;
Halley’s Comet does show up every once in a while, Spain
can get thumped by the Swiss in the World Cup, and a screaming
good Northern Rhone rose value HAS, in fact, made its way into
our store and our hearts. The house of Georges Vernay is well
regarded for both Viognier from Condrieu and Syrah from Cote
Rotie and St. Joseph, and we are lucky to have an importer that
works so closely with them to be able to receive some of this
rare and delicious wine. While not quite as salmon orange colored
as the Provencal style tends to be, it is decidedly paler than
the bright ruby colors of the Grenache based rose from Tavel
and most of the Southern Rhone. Grenache tends to be riper in
sugars at harvest, and while not sweet they do have a juicier
cherry and ripe strawberry aroma and flavor, and their alcohol
content can be a little bit elevated as well and give the rose
a bit headier presence. The Syrah here strikes the perfect middle
ground, showing wonderful ripe fruit aromas and flavors without
any boozy distractions. Cherry skins, strawberry leaves, and
pomegranate juice spin from the glass with each swirl, but the
first sip hits the palate with much drier fruits and light tannins,
even savory flavors hinting at sage. The acidity on the finish
gives this plenty of food potential, from summer salads with
a light vinaigrette up to salmon.
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June 10, 2010
2006 "r" GRAND VIN & CABERNET FRANC
$23.99, $20.39/case
Everything you thought you knew about Virginia wines is about
to change. In much the same way the sparkling wines from Thibaut-Janisson
redefined the style here in Virginia, we think the red wines
from this label completely transform our expectations of what
our state has the potential to produce. There are two keys to
their exceptional character. First is the small size of their
production. Painfully small. Pitifully small. Single barrel
lots of no more than 40 cases each, so of course you won’t
see these available all over creation. Genius starts in very
small doses. The other key is the source of this genius, the
brilliant young winemaker creating these gems. So passionate,
knowledgeable, and skilled that had he chosen to pursue his
craft in one of the more lucrative winemaking regions, we’d
probably be reading about his in the trade magazines as ‘the
next big thing’. When speaking about his wines, he drops
quotes of scripture and Janis Joplin with equal ease, and he
makes it hard for me to elaborate on anything he says about
them. He has me –ME!- at a loss for words. Fortunately,
during the Friday part of the Insider’s Pick tasting,
the man we call ‘r’ will be in the store from about
3:30 to pick up my slack and truly tune you in to what he’s
putting out there. For now I will do my best to just give the
brass tacks and step politely out of the way to let the wines
do the talking. The two wines available so far are the Grand
Vin and the Cabernet Franc. On Thursday we will have the Grand
Vin open to taste as that is the larger production (40 cases),
and will have both wines available on Friday. The Grand Vin
is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot created with the mindset
of a Bordeaux from St Emilion. The Cabernet Franc was source
from some of the oldest vines in the state, and made with the
mindset of the great Chinon wines from the Loire. While many
Virginia wineries have paid tribute to these French winemaking
regions, NO wines have captured their personality as well as
this; the wines speak the French language with a southern twang.
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June 03, 2010
2008 CANTINA FRENTANA PECORINO COLLINE FRENTANE
$16.99, $14.44/case
You won’t find many wine retailers out there saying “Check
out the awesome value on this Pecorino!” Actually, you
won’t find many retailers saying “Check out this
Pecorino!” If you ask, most would say “Pecorino?
You must want the cheese shop down the street.” The Pecorino
grape is another one of those old varieties that was nearly
lost in the desire of many regions to plant the more hip and
desirable ‘international’ grapes. In much the same
way as the Godello grape from Spain we did in the Insider’s
Pick several weeks back, Pecorino was nearly extinct a few decades
ago, so much so that, at the time of its renaissance, there
were no cultivated vines remaining, and that it had to be identified
from wild vines and re-established. The grape name comes from
the same origin as the cheese (Pecora=sheep); the rumor is these
grapes were planted mostly on the very outside of vineyard rows,
and when sheep were shepherded past from one field to the next
they would eat the less prized Pecorino grapes instead of the
more valuable varieties further in. The grape had a reputation
for being problematic to get from vine to wine, and in regions
like the Marches where modern winemaking techniques were slow
to arrive, most farmers didn’t have the time or patience
to deal with problems when they could be making other wines
more easily. The Pecorino revival has been slowly growing (even
with modern equipment yields are lowish, so there just isn’t
a lot to go around) but they are starting to gain momentum.
By a largely circumstantial twist, we tasted 3 different bottlings
in the span of a few weeks, when we hadn’t seen more than
one per year (if that). This really shows off the grape’s
unique aromatics and surprising quality without upcharging for
the rarity of the experience. Golden in color, almost Chardonnay,
the aromas are all peaches and cream with hints of cool mint
and sage, juicy but not tropical. In the mouth the texture is
impressively plush, showcasing the soft ripe fruits with just
a glimmer of acidity and citrus peel across the back of the
palate. The round soft texture will appeal to the Chardonnay
drinkers out there, but the flavors within are more complex
and interesting, like it’s painting in 3-D while Chardonnay
is only painting in 2-D. While it isn’t likely Pecorino
will be the next big flavor sensation to sweep the four corners
of the globe, this is a great wine to explore the unique personalities
that live in each variety, and at a price that will make you
happy no matter what the name is in your glass.
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May 27, 2010
2006 DOMINIO DEL PLATA BENMARCO ‘EXPRESIVO’
(Wine Advocate 92points)
$29.99, $25.49/case
Going into the Memorial Day weekend we have a nice
little three day tasting lineup of Argentinean wines. Starting
Thursday and Friday with our usual Insider’s Pick wine,
we will segue into a very special Saturday tasting featuring
the wines from Luca Winery. This is the winery started by Laura
Catena, daughter of winemaker and founder of Catena Zapata winery
Nicolas Catena. The wines Saturday will be presented by assistant
winemaker and export manager Celeste Pesce. For the Insider’s
Pick, we feature one of the top quality/dollar ratio wines you
will find over $20 anywhere in the store. The Benmarco label
is the creation of Susana Balboa, one of Argentina’s most
reputable and long serving winemakers of any gender, and one
of the very top female winemakers in the world, on par with
Helen Turley or Heidi Peterson Barrett in California. We have
featured lots of her wines in the past, mostly her entry level
‘Crios’ line which features one of the most highly
regarded Torrontes wines in Argentina every year, as well as
her signature line. The Benmarco wines are her premium line,
created in concert with her viticulturalist husband Pedro Marchevsky
using small plots of older vines spread across Mendoza. The
Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec are outstanding, but Expresivo
is their crowning achievement, a Malbec-dominated wine with
equal additions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot,
and Tannat. Deep and inky in the glass, the wine explodes from
the starting blocks with waves of blue and black fruits that
are rich but not sweet and cloying, showing no excessive heat,
indeed very cultured and balanced with notes of smoke and spice
and something that reminds me of old hardwood furniture, a worn
and polished mahogany. In the mouth the wine has all the power
and complexity of a $50 California Cabernet Sauvignon, flexes
its muscles across the palate without over-saturating it with
extracted fruit, and showing extremely silky and well integrated
tannins. Where many Argentine wines would be dominated by strong
oak or overabundant fruit and oak on the finish, the Tannat
and Petit Verdot included in the blend bring a bit of high toned
red fruit flavors and sensations of grape and cherry skin tartness.
This shows plenty of aging potential because of its fine structure
and good acidity, but has all kinds of food friendly possibilities
now as well.
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