 The Virginia wine industry is still in its infancy, relatively speaking, as there is still a lot to be learned about what grape varieties will perform the best. It can take a decade or two to figure out what experiments work the best, and even longer for others to mimic that success and replicate it (imitation being the greatest form of flattery and all that). Viognier became one of the first grapes to follow that form after early success with it from wineries like Horton in the 90s. We say all this as a lead in to today's wine because this is a wine that deserves to be copied by others in our area. Roussanne is revered in both the Northern and Southern Rhone for its distinctive aromas, which is absolutely nailed here with the signature 'herbal tea' and combination of both orange and white citrus. The palate is also spot-on with an oily viscosity perked by both acidity and some skin texture, finishing with a lot of citrus zest and fine tannins. Aging the wine in multi-use barrels and terracotta amphora help this earn a lot of delicious mouthfeel without any unnecessary barrel flavor or tannin being added. This will do exceptionally well with your richer and more aromatically complex seafood dishes, or just be damn sexy and exciting on its own.
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 When you look at a map of the Languedoc from above, the vastness of the region along the Mediterranean seems like a broad nondescript mass. For much of its history, that would also describe the wines made here; nondescript and a mass (the highest volume producing region in France). Recent history has seen more and more wineries looking to separate themselves out from that mass and carve out some pockets of distinction, developing new appellations that will help show how their estate wines stand out against the mass produced co-operatives. Terrasses du Larzac is one of the older of these modern areas, though it wasn't officially recognized for labeling until 2005. Mas de Daumas Gassac started producing high quality estate wines in the late 1970s, proclaiming the higher elevations, temperature variants and diversity of soils at the edges of the Larzac plateau worthy of a 'Grand Cru' status relative to the rest of the Languedoc. Wines like this are proof that their belief was well founded, as they have the quality of a Cotes du Rhone but something else that makes them singular. Primarily concrete aged Grenache with varying amounts of Syrah, Mourvdre and Carignan from year to year, this is a blend of parcels from around the town of St Jean de la Blaquiere. Lots of energetic red fruit aromas, hinting at cranberry and spice as well as dark cherry and raspberry. The palate has a lot of texture with fine tannins and fruit that drinks a little darker than the aromas, still picking up citrusy/orange clove notes that have to come from the soils of the Terrasses. A great way to break up your Cotes du Rhone habit while staying with familiar flavors, lots of expression and enjoyment for the money.
INSIDER'S PICK: 2023 THE FLEDGE & CO. SOUZAO 'NIWATORI NO HA' JIKKEN BARRELS KLEIN KAROO $18.991/16/2025  Souzao is primarily known as a background grape for blending Port in the Douro region. Even in its native land you rarely see it as the featured grape, much less from South Africa. We had to hit up our favorite local South African winemaker, Riaan, for the full history: much of South Africa's early winemaking was focused on fortified wine, and many vineyards were planted using rootstock from Portugal to parallel Port as well as possible. Even though Souzao was less emphasized in the blends there are still older parcels scattered across the country waiting to be repurposed in projects like this one. A bit of a minimalist, 'natural' winemaking hand takes the heavy rustic sting out of the Souzao variety, but still leaves plenty for your taste buds to hold onto. Somewhere between deep purple and jet black in the glass, the aromas are packed with savory blue and black fruits (I like their term 'hedgerow fruits') with some pepper and iron tones, dark but never fruity or sweet. The palate takes a complete 180 degree turn with almost Gamay Beaujolais-like fine tannins, still darkly flavored but with brightness on the palate, almost tart like an underripe blackberry off the vine. Durable and dark enough for rustic dishes but also chillable if you so desired.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
May 2025
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