INSIDER'S PICK: 2022 BODEGAS ALTOS DE MONTANCHEZ TEMPRANILLO 'VEGAS ALTAS' EXTREMADURA $15.991/22/2026  As we are all preparing for the incoming Snowpocalypse (Snowmageddon? Snowzilla? Snow-Rodan?), seems wise to pour a wine that has some oomph to keep folks warm. The Extremadura region in Southwestern Spain is just such a place for those wines, warm and fertile with lots of regional crop specialties (as well as Pata Negra Serrano ham), and wines meant to be straightforward and approachable. I.E. cheap and cheerful. This Bodega is a very unique outlier in the region as the first (perhaps only?) certified organic producer for all the wines under their roof, with multiple parcels they work with moving to Biodynamics. Their style leans towards the natural or minimal intervention world, which brings freshness and style to reds that can often be lacking in character or subtlety. Fresh blackberry and current aromas on the nose, especially with a little time open, but also a nice pop of citrus, chocolate orange style that really plays nicely with the emerging peppery and savory notes. That citrus also comes out on the palate, providing freshness and acidity that is so often lost in wines from this region, giving the juicy dark fruits some lift and finishing surprisingly clean. A great pairing with lots of slow cooked 'comfort foods' you may be fixing with nowhere to go for 2-3 days at a time.
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 The term 'Super Tuscan' is very prevalent in Tuscany, used to identify wines that fall outside the classic regional appellation parameters, usually from having Bordeaux grapes in the blend. But 'Super Piedmontese'? Can we make that a thing? Outside of the occasional Pinot Noir, you really don't see a whole lot of deep seeded interest for introducing other varietals into the scene, so probably not. That means this wine is more of an exception to the rule, but a delicious discovery for the price point. Primarily Barbera with a decent splash of Merlot, the wine has a dark Dolcetto-ish color to it with some dark currant notes from the Merlot on top of the dry berry spice from the Barbera. Plump and darkly juicy as well on the palate with just a light tone of tannins at the finish and hints of underbrush behind the darker berries. A bit unexpected for Piedmont purist, but immensely drinkable. It works, sip after sip, and should be very friendly at the dinner table.
 Even though wines from this producer arrived later in 2025, it still stood out (along with their red wine and Vermouth) as one of our favorite finds of the year. What is even more remarkable is that this is a very young winery in an ancient growing region that came to be by luck and happenstance. The warm/hot region of Alicante sits south of Valencia and is historically known for making strong bulk wines and, in this small pocket around the town of Canyada, a rare fortified wine called Fondrillon. This Bodega was created and takes its name from the chance discovery a decade ago of an abandoned cellar full of Fondrillon casks untouched for 50 years and remnants back to the 19th century. These wines are of course massively expensive, but in taking possession of these barrels the new owners also took over the property's vineyards, full of older white and red vines that were also largely forgotten. After several years of massaging these vines back to health and bringing a much higher level of quality and modern winemaking methodology to the region, their stable of 'regular' wines are standouts as well and quite exceptional. This white is built from three local varietals-Verdil, Merseguera and Moscatel- aged on their lees using natural yeasts with a 'minimalist' style to it. With the aromatics and low abv at only 12.5%, you would think this was much more of a coastal/cool climate wine, with lots of salty lemon tones in with the cool flowers and fine herbal notes. The palate is nicely weighty with more pulpy, pithy citrus flavors, but in no way fruity at all, very lean and clean with a long puckering tartness to the finish. A stellar match for just about any strongly seafood-influenced dish you can come up with, with more than enough body to stand up to any levels of richness.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
January 2026
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