 Most people's knowledge of Gattinara comes from the production of a couple producers that dominate probably 75% of the exported wines. Like most of the other appellations in the Alto Piedmonte at the foot of the Alps, Gattinara is largely rural and lost much of their production and reputation after World War II. Most of the vineyards were family farms, not wineries, and cooperatives like this one were vital for production otherwise the vineyards would have been completely forgotten. This co-op has been serving Gattinara since 1908 drawn from 40 family plots, primarily for the production of this flagship wine. This true field blend (the exact % of each varietal is not known as all the varieties are harvested by the families and co-fermented) is primarily Nebbiolo with a generous portion of Barbera along with some Vespolina and Uva Rara. Fresh and savory with dried cherry and cool restrained herbal aromas, this is fiendishly drinkable from one sip to the next, with lots of juicy energy and no hard edges that are usually seen with the more Alpine versions of Nebbiolo. Dry but not dry-ING, the Barbera and other varieties really contribute to the immediate drinkability here. The unbottled tanks at the winery are famously sold to locals bringing jugs and demijohns for their 'weekly drinker' refills. This will likely make it into many of your rotations as well.
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 A little bit of 'North Meets South' in this wine, as one of the most acclaimed producers in the Northern Rhone takes on Grenache from the Southern Rhone. The Ogier family has been one of the larger presences in the Cote-Rotie for many generations as both growers and later winemakers, creating one of the most extensive selections of vineyards in the entire appellation. Great for reputation of excellence, but tough on finding values from the steep terraces slopes. The family recently found some suitable vineyards for them to work with in the Plan de Dieu region in between Chateauneuf and Gigondas in the Southern Rhone, and while the wine is primarily Grenache over Syrah, the Northern Rhone influence of the Ogiers is definitely apparent. Dark berry and black cherry skin aromas with a touch of herb and wild game in the background. The palate is also more Northern Rhone leaning, with a finely polished dark tannin and an energetic feel versus opulent juiciness, hitting the savory touches more than the up-front fruit. A great tweak on the expectations of Grenache based CDR, perfect for cold weather stews and braised or basted meat dishes, slow cooked and hearty stuff.
 One of the most important grape varieties in the history of New World winemaking, yet it's likely most people haven't knowingly tasted it. It goes by many names in North and South America (Pais, Mission, Criolla Chica) and was by all accounts the first vitis vinifera in the New World, brought over by Spanish missionaries in the 16th century to make their communion wines. The vines are high yielding and legendarily durable (the source of some of the oldest and genuinely gnarliest looking vines on the planet), but the juice is lighter weight and often very nondescript when compared to some of the more famous varieties. Lighter and lower alcohol wines are returning to fashion, and with thousands of acres in both American hemispheres there are lots of opportunities for great examples to be made. This is from a Chilean vineyard with vines just a 'mere' 90+ years old, formed as a collaboration between Chilean and Beaujolais producers. Makes sense, as a Cru Beaujolais would be most taster's first thought here. Dusty herbs and lightly floral red fruit on the nose with a touch of citrus and pomegranate, this is one of the prettier fragrances you will come across in a wine. The palate is light, but has more body and sneaky texture than expected, with lots of tart red fruits and citrus, finishing long with very fine tannins. Most Pais/Mission wines just aspire to be chillable and glug-able, but this brings some seriousness to the table.
 Hope everyone in Central Virginia are safe and sound after last week's Snow-mageddon. To coax you out of your ice-covered driveways and past the concrete-hard snow drifts at every corner, we wanted to give you something unique and compelling to sample. This is definitely that wine, something most people wouldn't think of unless and until they had a chance to sample it, and afterwards it becomes part of their weekly rotation. Friuli is the Easternmost portion of the Veneto, right up against the Slovenian border. White wines are still best known here, but there is a surprisingly strong reputation for the red wines here as well. One of the larger and flatter portions of the region is called Grave, referring to the gravelly soils, and it has a similar success with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon as the more famous Graves region in Bordeaux (also named for its gravelly soils). Refosco is the wild card in this mix, a very local grape that has more fame from some recioto-style sweeter wines but has the stuff to make some chewy tannic dry wines in their youth. The extra bottle age here is essential and well appreciated, making for a surprising and well evolved value. A nice dark color with hints of brick colors at the edges, the nose is exactly what you want to get in a wine with some age. Underbrush and red fruit skins, old leather, nothing jammy. The palate has loads of life to it, with the dusty tannins still pulling through on the finish to leave a long mature finish. Depending on your tastes you may prefer the juicy side of youth, but there is no better picture than this of the improvements a bit of time will do for a wine that needs it.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
March 2026
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