INSIDER'S PICK: 2022 TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA 'BARCO REALE' DI CARMIGNANO (Vinous 91pts)-$22.993/27/2025  The Carmignano region is as historically important and prestigious in Tuscany as Chianti and Montalcino, but because of the small size is probably the least 'famous' to consumers. The area was championed by the Medici family throughout the Renaissance, and was one of four areas in Tuscany identified in a 1716 edict by Grand Duke Cosimo for producing superior quality wines (an early effort into what became their DOC/DOCG system). The connection to the worldly Medici family also brought wines and winemakers from across Europe to this area, which led to introducing Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc into the allowed blends with Sangiovese and other local varieties. They are the original 'Super Tuscan', with much of their post-phylloxera plantings coming from famous growths like Lafite -Rothchild. Post-World War II, Capezzana and the Bonacossi family have been the leaders in re-establishing the greatness of Carmignano, with their top wines consistently looked at as the very best of the region. They also helped to establish the 'Barco Reale' level of wines, an entry level DOC that still shows off the unique regional character but built to be more approachable (think the Rosso di Montalcino to Brunello di Montalcino comparison). Primarily Sangiovese with varying amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Canaiolo, this sees very little oak aging but has savory red fruits and tobacco all over the nose, and the palate has tannic structure for dayyyyys. The bright natural higher toned red fruits of Sangiovese are on full display and comes across distinctly Tuscan, but the Bordeaux influence definitely leaves a mark. This doesn't need the cellar time of its bigger brothers but decanting and some patience definitely helps bring out the wow factor.
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 With Spring spring-ing everywhere around us, it's a good time to start seeking out some warmer weather value wines to enjoy during outside socializing with our friends and neighbors. Wines with a bit of fizz can be fun, but there is a LOT of generic efforts out there, as if throwing a little bubble in some boring juice somehow makes it better. Good fizz starts with good juice, plain and simple. This bottling comes to us from the Mary Taylor portfolio of wines, an importer that helps to source and create the wines they bring in so that they can have traditional, well priced wines that properly represent their various regions across Europe. The grapes here are Glera, the backbone of Prosecco, as well as Garganega, and though the fruit all comes from within the Prosecco region it falls outside the standards to use that name. Don't sweat the lack of a name, because what's in the bottle is delicious. A light fizzy froth on the pour quickly calms down and leaves pretty golden apple and fresh pear skin aromas that stay crisper the cooler the wine is. The palate has a bit of tickle to it that gives a lot of refreshing texture to the core of white fruits, and gets slightly off-dry feeling the more the fizz falls away. Keep the cap screwed on between pours to keep it as lively as possible, and this will be a crowd pleaser for many months to come.
 It can be difficult to find a wine with both great flavor AND great purpose, but every once in a while a gem falls into our laps. Planet Oregon is a second label from Soter Vineyards, regarded as one of America's foremost proponents of Organic/Biodynamic winemaking. Their strict following of these principles is obvious in the quality of their single vineyard and estate bottlings, and are sought by collectors everywhere. This brand was created in 2009 because, in their own words, they "wanted (it) to have a purpose greater than what is in the bottle, and a reach beyond the confines of one property or a few wine collectors’ cellars." The fruit is sourced from local sustainable or organic vineyards, and as part of the 1% For The Planet initiative donate $1 for each bottle sold to the Oregon Environmental Council. Beyond their environmental do-gooding, the wine is great, a textbook Oregon Pinot in every positive sense. Dusty Bing cherry and tart raspberry aromas that get warmer as the wine opens up, but don't veer into the sweeter tones, always staying fresh and bright. The palate is equally energetic, juicy with a nice weight for the price point but shows lots of tang behind the fruit, finishing with super fine tannins and a hint of pepperiness. Impressively classy wine for the price that doesn't need any extra time in the bottle to really strut its stuff.
 Italy is a treasure trove of unique grape varieties for the adventurous wine drinker, full of regional specialties that are part of the local culture but rarely if ever get exposed beyond that. We found the rare Bellone grape through this winery several years back through their basic bottling. How unknown is it? The total of the entry for Bellone in the usually comprehensive Jancis Robinson's Guide to Wine Grapes is "very juicy ancient grape grown near Rome." Not much to go on, but it's been an under-the-radar success for many vintages now. Anthium take the grape to the next level (arguably the best version of the grape in the market) featuring a single 60 year old vineyard on the family property. Both the regular Bellone and Anthium are vinified the same way, but the extra vine age definitively elevates the quality of the wine. Bright in the glass with some noticeable viscosity, the aromas are full of deep tropical fruits with pops of citrus zest, warming but still refreshing. The palate is next level rich and unctuous with no signs of sweetness, pulpy and mouth-filling with plenty of mineral laden fruit and notes of skin tannin on the lengthy finish. Excellent match with rich seafood and poultry dishes, the extra texture really helps it stand up to almost any level of intensity.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
May 2025
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