There is likely no wine region in the world whose reputation was 'done dirty' in the 1970s worse than Lambrusco. Sure, the name was popular; you say '**** On Ice!', and many people will still be able to respond 'So Nice!' But that was the sweetest version of Lambrusco and by far the least distinctive (or even most popular style in its Emilia-Romagna home). It is like having your only exposure to red meat be from a fast food chain's burger. The wines are actually dynamic, usually quite dry, and very deserving of more attention. Sorbara is the name of both a grape used to make Lambrusco as well as a subregion, both of which are considered elite sources of quality. This version is also made using the older 'Frizzante', so not as much pressure and carbonation as the Prosecco-style Charmat method. While it looks to lose its carbonation quickly in the glass, it will maintain a bit of prickliness on the palate for a while. Very pale salmon in color, the aromas are of impressively fresh strawberry fruit and strawberry leaf, as well as a background of tart citrus. The palate is juicy, savory and racy all at the same time with refreshing salty tingle to the finish, which is EXACTLY what you want this type of wine to be when you pair it with salami, roasted vegetables, and sauces or dishes finished with Parmigiano Reggiano.
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A new vintage marks the return of one of our favorite finds from last year, as well as example #132 from us that not ALL Californian Chardonnays are the same or should be thought of as such. The wines from Ian Brand and his Paysan label are everything we love about Californian wine and winemaking; full on 'farmer wines' that are sourced from unique and often under-rated parts of the state, always showing off the distinct character of the pockets of Monterey and the Central Coast he pulls from. The cool climate and coastal influences on vineyards in this area tend to provide grapes with more natural acidity. All too often the winemaking choice with this fruit would be to beat that acidity out with lots of malolactic fermentation and oak barrel aging, but invariably that would make them just taste like fruit from everywhere else. Paysan choses to embrace that local character with mostly neutral barrels and a sensitive hand to the use of malo, just enough to buff off some of the rougher edges. Rich lemon curd and fresh melon aromas with a little flinty tone, definitely smelling more of the vineyards near Salinas than whoever the barrel makers may have been. The palate is rounder than you would expect, more leesy and warm Californian fruit at first but settling into a fresher citrus and mineral filled palate that finishes clean, juicy and more than a bit mouth-watering. A perfect wine to crush on all Spring and Summer long. The Mencia grape is one of the great success stories from the modern era of Spanish wine over the last 40+ years. Found exclusively in the furthest Northwestern corner of the country, it bridges into Old Castile in the region of Bierzo and up into the mountains of Galicia, with very different wines made from the mountains to the foothills and lowlands. The wines here were largely overlooked as being too inconsistent, light and simple at times when consumers were looking for bigger and bolder tastes from Spain, but improved winemaking and broader consumer tastes have really brought out the best of this region. Mencia draws a lot of comparison to Cabernet Franc (so much so that a Cab Franc clone existed in some vineyards as Mencia for well over 100 years before it was discovered and ferreted out), and versions like this from the higher river banks of Valdeorras tend to show a lot in common with Cab Franc from the Loire. Cool floral notes of red fruits and subtle herb aromas get bolder and more red-fruited as it opens up, with a nice earthy character gained from some of the grapes being fermented with full clusters, a technique often used to make the more earthy and structured styles of Syrah and Pinot Noir around the world. Bright flavors on the palate that mix both savory red fruits and pops of citrus, and a little bit of unique 'local character' that shows up thanks to a small portion of rare native grapes co-fermented in to provide a field blend identity. Fans of lower abv red wines should definitely get Mencias like this on your radar, a killer pairing with well-herbed meat dishes like a marinated pork loin. As Americans on the East Coast, we probably have the least amount of familiarity with the Margaret River and Western Australian wine regions than any other. Getting from Perth to here is just about literally the longest trip a wine could make to get here, so for effort and cost of transport we see very few examples beyond 1-2 of the blue chip producers that are already expensive anyway. From that lens alone this becomes a TREMENDOUS value, and what's in the bottle is worth every minute of the trip to get here. The region is very coastal, heavily influenced by the Indian Ocean, with conditions more akin to some of the cooler Californian regions. Cabernet Sauvignon here is much less oozy and heavy, instead showing more restrained and structured characteristics, even Bordeaux-ish in some ways. Dark currants and leathery red fruits on the nose that get deeper and more peppery as it opens up, this is definitely a style of Cabernet that isn't in a rush to show everything off at once. The palate has surprisingly nice acidity that adds of tart red fruits into the mix, and the tannins are equally fine and persistent to give this a refreshingly long finish. At only 13.5%abv some may think it's going to be restrained or lean, but this is a very complete wine and packed with character and complexity, something that should be on every Cab fan's reference list. |
The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
March 2026
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