 One of our more unique Rose wines we get each year, yet routinely one of the most loved and definitely one of the best Roses we have for year-round drinking. The Basque region around the city of Bilbao is vastly different from the rest of Spain; environmentally, culturally, right down to their own quasi-independent regional government. Their identity is so self-dependent that even their finest local Football club, Athletic Bilbao, has a policy over the last century to only sign Basque raised or Basque trained players. It should come as no surprise then that their wine culture features grapes that are theirs and theirs alone as well. The majority of their wines are white from the Hondarribi Zuri , tailor made to pair with some of the finest maritime cuisine in the world, and the primary grape for their red wines coming from the Hondarribi Beltza grape. Ameztoi is largely credited for popularizing this Basque style of Rose, an even blend of the red and white varietals pressed and vinified together with the slightest bit of natural carbonation. Pale, Provence-esque salmon color in the glass with the tiniest pinpoints of bubbles on the surface, the aromas are full of citrus and dried strawberry, with a little bit of the coastal zest the white wines are so known for. The palate is light with a tart lime zing to it popped by the slight tickle of carbonation, mouthfilling and quenching at the same time, finishing with a bit of savory red fruit at the end to remind you that there is some red wine elements here as well. Fully dry yet still under 11%abv, this is about as easy drinking and energetic a Rose as you will find.
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 Many consumers don't know about the greatness of Sancerre Rose. The region is deservedly famous for Sauvignon Blanc, one of the finest expressions of the grape anywhere in the world, but around 20% of the appellation is also planted to Pinot Noir. Most of that 20% goes to making Rose (a small % is used in red wine), but even so there isn't enough to make higher volume and inexpensive versions like in Provence that can familiarize the everyday consumer with the style. On the plus side, once you try one you will find you will rarely if ever find one boring or disappointing, consistently delivering excitement from producer to producer and vintage to vintage. The same chalky soils that make the Sauvignon Blanc so distinctive also shines through in the Rose, bringing a refreshing nerviness that very few others can approach. Cool strawberry and rose petal aromas with the chalky mineral notes coming through slightly lime zest-y especially when the wine is at its coolest. On the palate is where the wine's signature sits, polished and velvety Pinot Noir mouthfeel with a fine mineral tingle to the fruit, and lightly dried strawberry leaf on the finish that is very mouthwatering. Delicious all-purpose wine for both food and by itself, and surprisingly durable because of the acidity, capable of thriving for several years past the vintage if you choose.
 The wines of Luis Pato are Portuguese icons, revolutionary in their time and still a leader more than 50 years on. Were they from one of the more famous regions in Europe, their name would be on most every wine drinker's lips by now. The family can trace its growing history back more than 200 years, but the Bairrada region (about 50 miles South of Porto) was only designated for wine production in the late 1960s, and the Patos were the first to use the name on their wines. Under the control of Luis since the 1980 vintage, the winery has been THE name here, developing wines in the more 'natural' style well before the name became cool, all with a very nonconformist attitude that pushes some of his greatest wines outside the Bairrada DOC regulations. Focusing on their native varieties they have elevated the Baga grape (red) and Maria Gomes (also called Fernao Pires elsewhere in Portugal) into grapes of distinction and recognized quality. For the Maria Gomes, think of it as a Portuguese version of Muscadet, but with a little more sunshine added in. Fresh lime and melon rind aromas pop from the glass almost immediately with a racy, slightly minty coolness. On the palate there is a juicy body at first, followed up by more of a lemon-y tang and more tart fruit than on the nose. This is where you get a lot of the Muscadet comparisons as it can hit almost like salinity, especially when being consumed with seafood. That, of course, is EXACTLY what you should be doing with this wine at all times, getting it together with fresh and simply prepared seafood dishes.
 Many consumers think of Chardonnay as one very general category of wine type, and the idea of 'California Chardonnay' is even further homogenized together, the only differences being 'cheap' vs 'expensive' or 'bad' vs 'good'. Oaky and buttery flavors are usually the primary flavors that get associated with these Chardonnays, but they aren't the flavors of the grape itself. They are added on through the barrel aging process, they don't HAVE to be there, the grape can present itself with more nuance without a lot of help. More and more these days there are producers pulling back on the reins of their barrel use, especially when they have access to a unique and distinctive vineyard site like this one. Jacks' Hill is just inland from what is probably Monterey's most famous vineyard (Sleepy Hollow) and contains some very under-appreciated older parcels that winemaker Ian Brand sources for this wine, which he builds with multi-use oak barrel, concrete and steel tanks to get a Chablis-inspired wine that still has a lot of the Californian earmarks. Rich lemon curd and zesty tropical fruit aromas with cool and tempering mineral notes that get bolder the longer the wine opens up. The palate has plenty of leesy fruit flesh and melon skin texture, and a distinct extra oompf of rich fruit that is the signature of the Wente Chardonnay clone, which even without a lot of oaky/buttery flavors is about as Californian as you can get. Great for sipping but outstanding with all sorts of fleshier seafood and white meat dishes, really versatile.
 When you have grape vines isolated on an island for many centuries, unique things start to happen. The varieties evolve in their own environment, mutate, and over time can become vastly different from what they are on the mainland. Sometimes they can even become different from themselves on the same island, if the terrain can isolate them enough. Graciano is a variety primarily known in Spain as a background compliment to Tempranillo in Rioja, but at some point was brough over to Sardinia and became prolific across the island. Over time the Sardinians developed at least 20 synonyms for the grape, and have at least two recognized named varieties that came from the common ancestor, Bovale and Cagnulari. They are distinct enough to have this producer bottle them each separately as their own wines, so they definitely find signature differences within each grape. Bright and savory fruit with a bit of tartness to the red fruit aromas, getting bolder and a bit of sweeter berry tones as it opens and the more rustic sides wear off. Has a rustic side to the palate as well, typical of the wilder nature of the island, but not as chewy as their Bovale by comparison, a bit brighter flavors coming through on the still relatively tannic finish. Unique and fun to try, tasty to match with rustic grilled meats and hearty vegetables.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
May 2025
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