Beaujolais and Burgundy may seem worlds apart to most people, but in fact they are quite connected, both geographically and historically. The city of Macon and the Maconnaise region itself sit at the southernmost end of Burgundy, and just meters away at either the crest of one hillside or the foot of another (some of the dividing lines seem to overlap a bit) Beaujolais begins, and as you travel South towards Lyon the geology transforms dramatically. Many map producers are as likely to add Beaujolais when showing Burgundy as they are Chablis which is about 100km from Dijon as the next nearest point in the appellation. Burgundy of course has made its bones on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and Beaujolais is wholly committed to the Gamay grape, but in these overlaps there are areas where some grapes wash back and forth. Gamay makes some appearances still in Burgundy and can be blended with Pinot Noir to make a 'Passetoutgrain', and Chardonnay drifts down in pockets to make the occasional Beaujolais Blanc. Often they can be no more than the token white wine a house may offer before they taste you on their multiple Cru Beauj, but in the hands of an outstanding producer like Terres Dorees you have a very nice and well priced White Burgundy-in quality, if not actually by name. Bright lemon and minerally white fruits on the nose with lots of clarity and freshness from being aged in concrete vats versus any sort of oak. You catch a little bit of malolactic fermentation on the palate, but just enough to round out the edges of the vibrant fruit and minerality, as well as a slight hint of creaminess from the lees aging at the finish. A great warm weather white that does fantastic with a chill without losing any character or complexity, perfect with lighter fish or fresh salads.
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A delicious double shot of wines from varieties many may not think can make (much less should make) high quality wines. The Alto Adige region of Italy is vastly underrated for the standout quality of their wines, and we do our very best trying to tell as many folks as possible. HIgh in the Dolomite Mountains and at the foot of the Austrian Alps, the region has more parallels to Germanic or Austrian wines than the rest of Veneto. Even the names of people and places here seem to share more of a Germanic root than Italian. The wines here, especially the white wines, are imbued with cool mountain clarity and bright acidity you just won't find in the warmer flatlands. The best producers, of which the Cantina Terlano co-operative is definitely one, can also pull out great intensity that elevates everything they work with. Neither Muller Thurgau or Pinot Grigio are expected to make world class wines, but these definitely fit that moniker. On the Muller Thurgau, usually a very quiet and minimalist variety, there's lots of cool lime and flint on the nose that builds to pear and white peach over time, and a very nervy round palate with lots of mouth-watering acidity and cool zesty citrus. The Pinot Grigio is a skosh warmer and juicier on the nose, and not quite as much penetrating minerality on the palate, but there is no doubt about the common Alpine heritage of these two wines. Refreshing and incredibly food friendly, splendid with a healthy chill on them which will serve well for the hot days and weeks to come. The Greco grape has a foothold throughout most of southern Italy, from Naples down being one of the primary varieties used in their white wines. The grape is probably most famous when coming from the high volcanic mountain vineyards above Naples where Greco di Tufo is made, but it makes durable and reliably tasty wines pretty much everywhere it grows. Calabria is more known to Americans for the historical connections to the Italian mafia than for wine (we've been told, we've heard they're there, we know nothing, snitches get stiches), but quality exists in pockets especially along the coastline and mountains along the Ionian Sea. Coastal breezes and mountain temperature changes help bring much needed cooling freshness to the otherwise warm environment, giving whites like this a distinctive pop. Warm peach and Meyer lemon aromas that catch a bit of flowery prettiness as it gets warmer, but are otherwise fairly zesty at ice-bucket temperatures. The palate is juicy and also loaded with the same fruit on the nose, but finishes with an impressive zing of almost salty citrus skin that really makes the wine distinctive. Fun for chilled down sipping, and can handle a lot of lighter to midweight seafood or vegetable dishes, so it's perfect for backyard activities this Summer. In many parts of the Rhone, Languedoc, and Southern France regions the native white grape varieties have been on the decline in terms of plantings and production. Often growers are converting more of their vineyards to red wine varieties that can be cheaper/easier to grow, or succumbing to the idea that Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc are an 'easier sell'. Thankfully there are other places in the world where these varieties (Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, and others) are improving in favor. Just from a quick look around the store we can see examples from Argentina, Italy, and Virginia that are not JUST Viognier but useful and delicious blends in the spirit of the best French bottlings. Both California and Washington have extensive planting of white Rhone varieties that continue to increase and improve, and Tablas Creek is one of the most important producers in this movement. The Paso Robles winery was founded in 1989 as a project between the esteemed Rhone producer Chateau du Beaucastel and their American importer Vineyard Brands. The vineyards were planted with clones from the Beaucastel property, requiring a three year quarantine before they could even begin planting, but necessary to ensure the ability to parallel the French estate. They also established a nursery for these vine clones, and have provided these clones to some of the best vineyards planted in the last 25 years. The Patelin series is made from nearby Paso Robles sites that have used their clones, so the wine is 'related' to their estate grown wines. Primarily Grenache Blanc and Viognier, with splashes of Roussanne, Marsanne, Vermentino and Bourboulenc, the nose is fresh and citrusy with mostly warm peach and orange blossom from the Grenache, but touches of floweriness coming through from the Viognier and others. The palate is round and fresh, juicy in texture without any want or need for oak being involved, with little tingles of minerality from the Vermentino and Bourboulenc that kick the fruits into a more zesty place. Plenty of body to take the place at the dinner table as a Chardonnay alternative, worthy of most any Summertime cookout foods or seafood dishes. |
The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
January 2026
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