 Grape clones are a vital part of what makes a wine taste the way it does, even when compared to other wines of the same grape. Clones get created by identifying traits and propagating it by grafting and creating new vines. Over time these clones get known for these traits, such as having better disease resistance, higher yields, or certain flavor profiles. There's never such a thing as the 'perfect' clone that has it all, so you can find all sorts of subtle style and flavor variety even within a grape like Sauvignon Blanc due just to the clones being used. We bring this up because this delightful wine from our friends at Dogwood & Thistle (the 'Dogwood' comes from Erin Robinson's growing up here in Virginia) is made from a unique Sauvignon Blanc clone that is only used in 2% of California vineyards, and is a major factor in the wine's intensity and distinct quality. And Sandy's winemaking talents as well, of course. The nose is immediately different, loaded with more lychee and white fruits in front of the grassier tones, cool and zesty without as much grapefruit impact. The palate has lots of full juicy texture that shows off the cool Mendocino acidity on the zingy mouthfeel and long nervy finish. Delicious and food friendly, far different from the other 98% of California Sauvignon Blancs out there.
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INSIDER'S PICK: 2022 KELLEY FOX WINES 'NERTHUS' WILLAMETTE VALLEY $26.99 (Vinous 93points)7/18/2024  For the last 10+ years the team at Kelley Fox Wines has been growing a reputation as one of the dynamic, thoughtful and exciting newer producers in Oregon, cut from the same cloth as favorites like Patricia Green Cellars of a generation before. The talent of the winemaking has opened the doors to access some of the great vineyards of the region to make not only their acclaimed Pinot Noirs but for their more experimental wines like this. Living somewhere in between an 'orange wine' and a Rose, this is unique not only for the combination of grapes but the remarkable sources for some of the varieties. The blend of Early Muscat, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Riesling is whole cluster pressed and the slight tint of color comes from the Pinot Gris getting extra skin contact. All the fruit comes from sites well known for their Pinot Noir production, some older than 30 years and two particular ones from blocks in the 1980s planted franc de pied (on their own rootstock, unusual since the phylloxera blight in the late 1800s). The aromas are perfumed and intensely exotic, loaded with wildflowers, peach stone, orange zest, Asian tea and several other fragrances of your own imagination. Just a lot going on here, and it changes with each swirl of the glass. The palate is juicy and quenching yet completely dry and showing off the texture from all the skin contact, getting more of the pithy side of the fruit than the pulp and a dusty mineral note to the finish that lingers as long as the aromas do.
 We always like reminding people during 'Rose Season' in the Summer that great dry Rose comes from all sorts of grape varieties and all parts of the world, not just Provence. More importantly, wineries that make all manner of great wines will also make great Rose, so they don't have to be a specialist to really knock your socks off. Vajra has been our most represented producer from the Piedmont for many years, from their most basic Langhe Rosso to their finest single site Barolos. It should come as no surprise then that their Rose built from the three primary grapes of the region (Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto) is also one of the best Italian versions we get year to year. The winery harvests the grapes used for making this Rose early to give it acidity and distinctive freshness that mirrors the Provencal style in same ways, but still shows the unique character of the Piedmont varieties. Pale salmon color and loads of rose petals and light red fruits on the nose as well as some citrusy or green apple type tartness. The palate has great weight, you get the juicy feel of Barbera, but the acidity and Nebbiolo's fine texture gives the dried berry fruit some zip and lightly dusty note to the finish. This does everything a Provence Rose can do without tasting like an exact copy, you can tell there's Piedmont character in the glass.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
October 2025
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