An excellent American example of one of the earlier 'orange wine' styles, as well as perhaps the best names this side of the craft beer world (where they've been getting away with names like this for decades). The Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris grape will have a very slight bit of pigment to it when fully ripe, only enough for it to show up when the juice is left on the skins for many days, sometimes a couple weeks. The places where it is planted in Europe (including France and Slovenia) have done these rust colored, not-really-a-Rose wines for centuries, but they are time consuming to make and not as tourist-friendly as the fruitier 'regular' versions so not as prevalent. 'Ramato' means copper in Italian, and a very accurate descriptor for a Pinot Grigio left on the skins like this one is for 23 days. From the first whiff this is obviously different from your garden variety Grigio, more orange fruits to the nose with hints at mint and cooler herbs, subdued with a bit of twang. The palate is what really takes this wine and ones like it to a different level with all the natural skin texture present, giving the citrus a deep rind-y persistence, long and rich to a dry melon finish. Different but not funky, this has lots of substance to pair with fuller dishes well into the cooler weather and have you saying 'thank you very much' to the folks at Field Recordings for making such a great wine!
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Carignan is one of the more ubiquitous grape varieties, especially in the more bulk-producing regions along the Mediterranean. High volume and low effort in the warmer, drier climates means it's a favorite for growers looking to sell by the ton. There is also a fine line between 'cheap' and 'good value', so often with even just a little bit of help Carignan can make some very tasty daily drinkers. The grape can naturally be more acidic and a bit rough on the tannins, so on the cheap end it can reeeeeealy need some juicy Grenache blended in to make it survivable. Otherwise it can be like sipping a glass of 40-grit sandpaper. This one doesn't miss any additions in the slightest, showing off all sorts of rosy red fruits and wild sage aromas, getting a bit of a darker cherry and wild game as it opens up. The palate is lighter but not lean (maybe even chillable?), surprisingly fine tannic texture with a nice mix of briary fruits and touches of gaminess. A great Labor Day porch pounder to pair with most anything off the grill, very friendly in both flavor and price point. It may seem a little late in the 'Rose season' to be getting excited over something new. This is an 'All The Time' rose, however, one that is just too good to limit to just a few months of the year. Much of the Abruzzo region's past has been dominated largely by bulk wine production and large co-operatives, with little to get excited about with regards to quality. Recent history has seen exceptional improvement, with each generation seeming to elevate the reputation further and further. Initially the region only had DOC designations for white and red wines, but the quality of the local rose wine-Cerasuolo-has improved to such a degree that it was elevated to its own DOC in 2010. Smaller family estates like the one run by Chiara Ciavolich are making wines that challenge well established regions like Tavel for juicy, fleshy dry Rose that are every bit as exciting as those from Provence or anywhere else in Europe. Built from the Montepulciano grape, the first pour immediately calls the name of the wine to mind (literally 'cherry red'), looking like a cran-cherry cocktail at first. Aromas are quickly much deeper and interesting than a cocktail, full of cherry skin, mint stems, and more savory berry notes, generally a bit wilder than usually found in a Rose. The palate is more substantial than expected, lots juicy cherry at first but quickly getting fine tannins and light bitterness that is nicely persistent and fresh. This is also keeping a nice spine of acidity throughout the profile, which is often found lacking by those that tend to dismiss the more ruddy-colored roses of the world. Take this all the way to the Thanksgiving table and beyond this year. This is in opposition to my diatribe last week about the flaws and faults of trying to grow a grape in an environment that doesn't fit regardless of how popular the wine is. The inverse is also true, in that the best option for growing in some areas may not be a grape most people have heard of, but making quality wines will help make it popular. Blaufrankisch- or Limberger if you prefer (said nobody, ever)-has a long history and great success over the years in Austria, Germany, and many other alpine winemaking regions in Europe. The popularity has been more local than international, something you enjoyed there but didn't find demand in other parts of the world. The grape itself is durable, can handle a diversity of environments, and still make quality wines in a broad spectrum of styles. German influences in the Finger Lakes has made Blaufrankisch an important staple in the region almost since its inception,and is increasingly prevalent in Virginia and along the East Coast as more people get it into their mouths and get over the mushmouth-y grape name. Deep purple in color and a rich plummy fruit on the nose, the character is cool and savory, almost a bit of Syrah-like black pepper note there as well as some dark cherry skin. Darkly juicy on the palate with some dustiness in the tannins, no hard edges or under-ripe notes anywhere, which can be a danger with red wines in cooler climates. Not a wine for slamming at cocktail parties, there are other grapes for that. This is great for savory duck and pork dishes, consistent and delicious, and something to get into your rotation. |
The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
January 2026
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