 For Halloween, we wanted to throw out to everyone a 'Tricky Treat', a wine that's unexpectedly thrilling on the inside despite appearing rather ordinary on the outside. Massimiliano Calabretta is notorious in Sicily for being both a staunch traditionalist and a bit of a curmudgeon. He makes wines that he likes, the way he likes, generally not worrying about and often disregarding the rules for the appellation. Their vineyards all lie within the Mount Etna area but none of the wines indicate it on the labels, and he's perfectly fine with that. A 'Vino Rosso' is almost by definition the lowest designation for an Italian wine, and in most situations could be anything from anywhere. At Calabretta, it is an affordable look into their mindset. Each batch is a multi-vintage blend of up to five different years, focused mostly if not exclusively on the Nerello Mascalese grape along with other native varietals. The greatness here is in the age of some portions, some a decade or more old, which allows you the chance to taste some of the aged elements that usually can't be found without hiding away a wine yourself. A pale ruby color with a bit of bricking at the edges, the aroma is a lovely mix of new and old, young red cherry with earth and leather, tart cranberry with savory underbrush. On the palate the younger parts give the fruit a bit of fresh weight, while the aged portions give the long fine tannins and lighter elegant finish. A mature and approachable wine that's ready to go without any work or time on your end; if you haven't started a wine cellar, this will make you want to start.
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 New blood in established win areas is always a good thing, brings some fresh perspectives and keeps things evolving and moving forward. La Ghibellina was established in the early 2000s by husband and wife Marina and Alberto, and while neither has a family tie to winemaking or viticulture they have deep connections to the region as a whole (Marina coming from a lineage of regional artists, Alberto from nearby Genova representing Italy in water polo at multiple Olympics). Their success in other life pursuits has also translated to success in the vineyards, as their small organic farm has achieved great quality in their whites and reds (even some sparkling wines!). This is quintessential Gavi, and considering the Gavi di Gavi commune is considered the very best of the region, it's also an impressive value. Clean and clear character, full of leesy white fruits, hay and cut flower aromas with tiny pops of dried herbs. The palate is round and dry but not stern, with lots of round green apple and refreshingly tart acidity to the finish that gets brighter and longer after every sip. A great year round white option for lighter fish and poultry dishes, clean and super dependable.
 We have several tastings happening this week to celebrate Virginia Wine Month, including a full lineup of wines for Saturday and a special Mead tasting with Thistle & Stag tomorrow from Fork Union. But what better way to kick off a celebration than with some bubbles from Virginia's finest sparkling wine makers at Thibaut-Janisson. The orange label of their flagship Blanc de Blanc Brut is about as identifiable in this state as the Veuve Cliquot yellow label (and we would say at LEAST as tasty) but people shouldn't also sleep on its easy drinking little brother, the Virginia Fizz. Same great sources of Chardonnay as the Brut, just vinified without the time on the lees and finished a little softer to make a lighter, cleaner, more easy drinking wine. Cool crisp green apple aromas with lots of fizz initially that mellows to a light bubble and dusty white fruits after some moments in the glass. The palate is equally clean and apply, very brisk with the carbonated snappiness on the tongue but not astringent through the finish, very spritely and lime zest throughout. Seriously good, but just not AS serious, great to pop for everyday celebrations.
 Another California wine we felt you needed to taste, inspired by a recent tasting run in Sonoma (yes it was QUITE the trip). Much like Bedrock from a few weeks back, Lioco is one of the great champions of older California vineyards and making wines from these distinctive heritage sites. The winery even features Morgan and Chris at Bedrock as a grower on their web site, so very much kindred spirits. They also have a distinct affinity for the Carignan grape, which is heavily planted throughout Mediterranean France and the coastal regions of other European countries, but only appears sparingly in California. Lioco works with two older parcels in Mendocino planted just this side of World War II, one of which goes into their 'Sativa' red wine (one of the best examples of Carignan you will ever find), the other is exclusively farmed to make this Rose. The distinctly cool location of the site allows the grapes to hang longer and develop more flavor without losing any natural acidity, resulting in a wine full of explosive character. A classic Provencal salmon pink in the glass, loads of tart red fruit and strawberry leaf aromas pop from the get-go, refreshing with just a touch of herbal tones. The palate is impressively full for a rose, absolutely filled to the brim with tangy watermelon mixed with herbs and salinity. Not 'Jolly Rancher' watermelon, but the freshest watermelon salad you've ever had, the one that made you realize for the first time that watermelon could be in a savory dish. That's what's in the glass. This will go pound for pound with ANY Rose in this price point that Provence can throw at it, and will come out on top.
 The Private Property brand is the second label for Caraccioli Cellars, a producer best known in the Santa Lucia Highlands for their fantastic sparkling wine creations. We first encountered them through their sparkling Rose (dollar for dollar one of the best sparklers you will find from anywhere), and felt we had to explore their still wines as well. Fruit for this Chardonnay comes from the same vineyards that supply the Chardonnay for their sparkling wine program and exemplifies the uniqueness of the Santa Lucia Highlands. It's one of California's coolest winegrowing climates as it funnels constant coastal winds from Monterrey Bay yet isn't as fog-bound which allows for steady ripening throughout the season. These sites make some of the state's most exciting Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays with a distinct sense of place, and it is very rare to find one able to show it off anywhere close to this price point. A bit atypical for Cali Chard in that they are very light on the use of oak and malolactic fermentation, so that those flavors do not obstruct the Highlands terroir, and you won't miss them in the slightest. Zesty aromas of lemon curd, white citrus and seashell, a truly coastal aroma. The palate is very similar and gets richer and creamier as it opens up. The bit of bottle age is significant to the complexity as the youthful acidity has softened into the background to allow a more natural buttery-ish texture to come in, yet you can still get the coastal and zesty fruits to come through. A Californian wine that doesn't taste like it could have come from anywhere and everywhere, this is distinct and delicious.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
February 2025
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