INSIDER'S PICK: 2014 WONDERMENT WINES PETITE SIRAH BACIGALUPI VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY $39.9912/18/2025 Petite Sirah is a notoriously long-aging grape variety, with some of the more intense single site bottlings taking years-if not decades-to see the rugged tannins start to soften. It's rare for us to be able to sell one like this that is starting to get 'in the pocket', especially one from such an historic site. Bacigalupi is one of the most historic and important vineyards in the Russian River Valley, as they were the source for the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that won the 1976 Paris tasting and changes the course of American winemaking (as well as inspiring the movie 'Bottle Shock'). The quality is undeniable; deep and inky colored, with loads of blackberry and currant on the nose, slowly sweetening with some spice over time. But the palate is where things really get rolling, where time in the bottle has patiently started to sand down the burly tannins, allowing a surprisingly bright combination of cedary dark fruits and pops of bright citrus. Don't know if it's because of the holiday season, but it gives me thoughts of a Terry's Chocolate Orange in some ways. The age also helps the alcohol merge seamlessly into the palate, another aspect of Petite Sirah that can be difficult in its youth. A real treat for the holidays.
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Appellation lines and borders can seem maddeningly random at times, but there are definitely times we can get it to work to our advantage. Felsina is an iconic producer of Chianti Classico, champions of the Sangiovese grape with nary a Bordeaux varietal vine anywhere on their estate. Their property is at the southern edge of the Classico appellation, so much so that the dividing line into the Colli Senesi appellation cuts through their holdings. Yes there are some geological and geographical changes, but other than that these vines are a healthy stone's throw away (maybe a stiff iron shot away if you're a golfer) from the same Sangiovese that makes Felsina's most acclaimed wines. Same organic viticulture, same attention to detail, same focus on a 100% Sangiovese wine as their big boys, this represents an excellent value for fans of classic Chianti. Youthful color with lots of dark graphite, leather and dark spice aromas that slowly get some smoky red tones going after a while. The palate is packed, mostly with young fine grained tannins at first but the dark fruit and leathery flavors elbows its way out eventually. Not a showy style of Chianti, it takes some decanting now and is unapologetically old school, and greatly rewards any patience shown to it. INSIDER'S PICK: 2024 LIEU-DIT 'BLANC DE MER' WHITE SANTA BARBARA COUNTY (Vinous 90points) $23.9912/4/2025 Bivalves can be a tricky food pairing, especially when you are doing them raw and accenting their briny flavors. Bubbles are safe, Champagne of course being the thing if you're feeling particularly luxurious, but still wines can be an issue, with values being a particular challenge. One of the long standing go-to areas for us has been Muscadet in France, with the seashell flavored wines coming from where the Loire empties into the Atlantic and picking up all kinds of coastal flavors. Lieu-Dit has produced here perhaps the best 'drink-alike' domestic wine for Muscadet fans, standing toe to toe (brine to brine?) with the classics of the region. A savvy and unlikely blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc from several important Santa Barbara vineyards, fermented using native yeasts to really draw out the natural vibrancy of the varieties. Super bright lemon, hints of flowers and rind-y citrus aromas pop at first, getting warmer and softer as it opens but also gaining some seashell tones. On the palate there is definitely more of a round texture than the lean and linear Muscadet wines usually have, so there is a bit of California juiciness here, but it's very welcome. Clean bright citrus peel flavors, very mouth-watering the more you sip with a long lemon and shell tone on the finish. The plate of oysters on the label isn't a subliminal suggestion, it's an order! |
The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
January 2026
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