INSIDER'S PICK: 2020 TERRANOBLE CARIGNAN 'AZARA' VALLE DEL MAULE (Vinous/Wine Advocate 91points) $21.99

In most parts of the world, Carignan isn't exactly a prized grape variety. More like 'tolerated' as a necessity, disdained as a viniferous weed though not to the extent of, say, kudzu in the South. It is the most heavily planted grape in France by a country mile, the backbone of the bulk Vin de Table industry as a grape that can produce almost ridiculous volumes of grapes with ease in the dry Mediterranean regions. It takes a lot of work to reign that growth in, more than many are willing to do to get higher quality results, but you do find the occasional success story in areas like Corbieres and the odd old-vine project in places like California (like store favorite Lioco). Surprisingly Chile also has a decent supply of older Carignan vines too, and in recent years more and more producers are taking on the challenge to tame this creature. A word to the wise: read carefully when shopping the Chilean aisle and don't confuse 'Carignan' with their more famous 'Carmenere' grape. Very easy to do, done it more than a few times ourselves. Terranoble is working with ancient vines from coastal dry farmed sites in the cooler Maule Valley, helping to dial back the vine's natural vigor and pulling better weight and flavor from the grapes. A savory mix of dark dried fruits and soft worn leather aromas, very naturally spiced fragrances without any toast coming from the barrels. On the palate the fruit gets more plummy and dark but also catches Carignan's natural acidity by throwing sone tart cherry skin and some zip on the fine polished finish. More elegant than expected, still persistent and sturdy, capable of working everywhere from grilled vegetables to pit fired beef and pork.

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