![]() Much of the history for wines in the Levant, the Spanish region around Valencia, has been focused on big cheap nondescript red wines sold in bulk. In the last 30 years there has been a move towards modernization and improvement, but a lot of it was also following the Australian influence of the time, that bigger=better and that everything about the wine needed to be 'supersized'. Lots of extraction and thickness, lots of oak, and usually lots of alcohol. That arms race has subsided and there are many more nuanced versions of their wines appearing. Monastrell (Mourvedre) is king of grapes here, able to withstand the baking heat and dry conditions and still maintain acidity and tannic structure. It is also hearty enough to live in the poor soils and be one of the few places in Europe that can maintain both own-rooted ungrafted vines AND be dry farmed. For the price this is an exciting introduction to the character of the region, built with a surprisingly delicate hand. Loads of black fruits and road tar on the nose, but surprisingly fresh without sweeter tones, and even a Rhone-like touch of herbs. White the palate is still fairly full bodied, it isn't thick or coating, instead showing more darker currant and fine tannins, even a sense of freshness to the finish without obtrusive new oak in the way. A great option for hearty meals in the cold days ahead.
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October 2024
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