INSIDER'S PICK: 2021 R WINES 'RUBY' RED MONTICELLO $34.99

For our last Insider's Pick during our 30th anniversary month, we can't think of a better wine to feature than this new release from our favorite 'side project' in Virginia. For many years the R Wines label has been made by someone we clandestinely refer to as 'The Mind Behind', one of the very best winemakers in the state. This project tends to be 1-2 barrel productions, artistic experiments that test theories and concepts, pushing the boundaries usually found in production winemaking, the more successful of concepts getting measured into the larger scale wines he makes for his day job. Ruby is his latest concoction, named in honor of his faithful dog and vineyard partner (also the inspiration for the bottle color scheme, black with white markings and a red collar), and is another successful experiment in Virginia winemaking. The blend, as usual for an R wine, is not divulged (but we're pretty sure Chambourcin is involved somewhere) as the intent and final result is more important than the ingredients. Deep in color but not thick and opaque, the youthful nose is full of lavender, spice, and savory red berry that gets deeper and richer as it opens up. The palate is most distinctive, polished with very fine tannins and delivering a profile of gamey high toned and slightly tart red fruit. In one way it's reminiscent of Cru Beaujolais, but there is more body and texture along with fuller, darker red fruit, so it also has hints of the Northern Rhone. A unique wine with loads of time ahead of it, a rare example of excellent natural winemaking process in Virginia, and completely singular. In short, nothing less than what we would expect from 'the Mind Behind'.

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