INSIDER'S PICK: 2022 Agr. SANLUCAR OLD VINE PAIS 'GRANITO' (Vinous 92points) $23.99

One of the most important grape varieties in the history of New World winemaking, yet it's likely most people haven't knowingly tasted it. It goes by many names in North and South America (Pais, Mission, Criolla Chica) and was by all accounts the first vitis vinifera in the New World, brought over by Spanish missionaries in the 16th century to make their communion wines. The vines are high yielding and legendarily durable (the source of some of the oldest and genuinely gnarliest looking vines on the planet), but the juice is lighter weight and often very nondescript when compared to some of the more famous varieties. Lighter and lower alcohol wines are returning to fashion, and with thousands of acres in both American hemispheres there are lots of opportunities for great examples to be made. This is from a Chilean vineyard with vines just a 'mere' 90+ years old, formed as a collaboration between Chilean and Beaujolais producers. Makes sense, as a Cru Beaujolais would be most taster's first thought here. Dusty herbs and lightly floral red fruit on the nose with a touch of citrus and pomegranate, this is one of the prettier fragrances you will come across in a wine. The palate is light, but has more body and sneaky texture than expected, with lots of tart red fruits and citrus, finishing long with very fine tannins. Most Pais/Mission wines just aspire to be chillable and glug-able, but this brings some seriousness to the table. ​

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