INSIDER'S PICK: 2022 FELSINA CHIANT COLLI SENESI $26.99

Appellation lines and borders can seem maddeningly random at times, but there are definitely times we can get it to work to our advantage. Felsina is an iconic producer of Chianti Classico, champions of the Sangiovese grape with nary a Bordeaux varietal vine anywhere on their estate. Their property is at the southern edge of the Classico appellation, so much so that the dividing line into the Colli Senesi appellation cuts through their holdings. Yes there are some geological and geographical changes, but other than that these vines are a healthy stone's throw away (maybe a stiff iron shot away if you're a golfer) from the same Sangiovese that makes Felsina's most acclaimed wines. Same organic viticulture, same attention to detail, same focus on a 100% Sangiovese wine as their big boys, this represents an excellent value for fans of classic Chianti. Youthful color with lots of dark graphite, leather and dark spice aromas that slowly get some smoky red tones going after a while. The palate is packed, mostly with young fine grained tannins at first but the dark fruit and leathery flavors elbows its way out eventually. Not a showy style of Chianti, it takes some decanting now and is unapologetically old school, and greatly rewards any patience shown to it.

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