INSIDER'S PICK: 2022 RED TAIL RIDGE BLAUFRANKISCH FINGER LAKES $24.99

This is in opposition to my diatribe last week about the flaws and faults of trying to grow a grape in an environment that doesn't fit regardless of how popular the wine is. The inverse is also true, in that the best option for growing in some areas may not be a grape most people have heard of, but making quality wines will help make it popular. Blaufrankisch- or Limberger if you prefer (said nobody, ever)-has a long history and great success over the years in Austria, Germany, and many other alpine winemaking regions in Europe. The popularity has been more local than international, something you enjoyed there but didn't find demand in other parts of the world. The grape itself is durable, can handle a diversity of environments, and still make quality wines in a broad spectrum of styles. German influences in the Finger Lakes has made Blaufrankisch an important staple in the region almost since its inception,and is increasingly prevalent in Virginia and along the East Coast as more people get it into their mouths and get over the mushmouth-y grape name. Deep purple in color and a rich plummy fruit on the nose, the character is cool and savory, almost a bit of Syrah-like black pepper note there as well as some dark cherry skin. Darkly juicy on the palate with some dustiness in the tannins, no hard edges or under-ripe notes anywhere, which can be a danger with red wines in cooler climates. Not a wine for slamming at cocktail parties, there are other grapes for that. This is great for savory duck and pork dishes, consistent and delicious, and something to get into your rotation.

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