INSIDER'S PICK: 2023 THE FLEDGE & CO. SOUZAO 'NIWATORI NO HA' JIKKEN BARRELS KLEIN KAROO $18.991/16/2025 ![]() Souzao is primarily known as a background grape for blending Port in the Douro region. Even in its native land you rarely see it as the featured grape, much less from South Africa. We had to hit up our favorite local South African winemaker, Riaan, for the full history: much of South Africa's early winemaking was focused on fortified wine, and many vineyards were planted using rootstock from Portugal to parallel Port as well as possible. Even though Souzao was less emphasized in the blends there are still older parcels scattered across the country waiting to be repurposed in projects like this one. A bit of a minimalist, 'natural' winemaking hand takes the heavy rustic sting out of the Souzao variety, but still leaves plenty for your taste buds to hold onto. Somewhere between deep purple and jet black in the glass, the aromas are packed with savory blue and black fruits (I like their term 'hedgerow fruits') with some pepper and iron tones, dark but never fruity or sweet. The palate takes a complete 180 degree turn with almost Gamay Beaujolais-like fine tannins, still darkly flavored but with brightness on the palate, almost tart like an underripe blackberry off the vine. Durable and dark enough for rustic dishes but also chillable if you so desired.
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October 2024
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