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INSIDER'S PICK: 2024 BODEGAS COLECCIONDE TONELES CENTENARIOS 'LAS BLANCAS TRADICIONALES' ALICANTE (Wine Advocate 92pts) $23.99

1/8/2026

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Even though wines from this producer arrived later in 2025, it still stood out (along with their red wine and Vermouth) as one of our favorite finds of the year. What is even more remarkable is that this is a very young winery in an ancient growing region that came to be by luck and happenstance. The warm/hot region of Alicante sits south of Valencia and is historically known for making strong bulk wines and, in this small pocket around the town of Canyada, a rare fortified wine called Fondrillon. This Bodega was created and takes its name from the chance discovery a decade ago of an abandoned cellar full of Fondrillon casks untouched for 50 years and remnants back to the 19th century. These wines are of course massively expensive, but in taking possession of these barrels the new owners also took over the property's vineyards, full of older white and red vines that were also largely forgotten. After several years of massaging these vines back to health and bringing a much higher level of quality and modern winemaking methodology to the region, their stable of 'regular' wines are standouts as well and quite exceptional. This white is built from three local varietals-Verdil, Merseguera and Moscatel- aged on their lees using natural yeasts with a 'minimalist' style to it. With the aromatics and low abv at only 12.5%, you would think this was much more of a coastal/cool climate wine, with lots of salty lemon tones in with the cool flowers and fine herbal notes. The palate is nicely weighty with more pulpy, pithy citrus flavors, but in no way fruity at all, very lean and clean with a long puckering tartness to the finish. A stellar match for just about any strongly seafood-influenced dish you can come up with, with more than enough body to stand up to any levels of richness. 
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