INSIDER'S PICK: 222 VAL DO GALIR MENCIA VALDEORRAS (Wine Advocate 91+pts) $20.99

The Mencia grape is one of the great success stories from the modern era of Spanish wine over the last 40+ years. Found exclusively in the furthest Northwestern corner of the country, it bridges into Old Castile in the region of Bierzo and up into the mountains of Galicia, with very different wines made from the mountains to the foothills and lowlands. The wines here were largely overlooked as being too inconsistent, light and simple at times when consumers were looking for bigger and bolder tastes from Spain, but improved winemaking and broader consumer tastes have really brought out the best of this region. Mencia draws a lot of comparison to Cabernet Franc (so much so that a Cab Franc clone existed in some vineyards as Mencia for well over 100 years before it was discovered and ferreted out), and versions like this from the higher river banks of Valdeorras tend to show a lot in common with Cab Franc from the Loire. Cool floral notes of red fruits and subtle herb aromas get bolder and more red-fruited as it opens up, with a nice earthy character gained from some of the grapes being fermented with full clusters, a technique often used to make the more earthy and structured styles of Syrah and Pinot Noir around the world. Bright flavors on the palate that mix both savory red fruits and pops of citrus, and a little bit of unique 'local character' that shows up thanks to a small portion of rare native grapes co-fermented in to provide a field blend identity. Fans of lower abv red wines should definitely get Mencias like this on your radar, a killer pairing with well-herbed meat dishes like a marinated pork loin.

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