For Halloween, we wanted to throw out to everyone a 'Tricky Treat', a wine that's unexpectedly thrilling on the inside despite appearing rather ordinary on the outside. Massimiliano Calabretta is notorious in Sicily for being both a staunch traditionalist and a bit of a curmudgeon. He makes wines that he likes, the way he likes, generally not worrying about and often disregarding the rules for the appellation. Their vineyards all lie within the Mount Etna area but none of the wines indicate it on the labels, and he's perfectly fine with that. A 'Vino Rosso' is almost by definition the lowest designation for an Italian wine, and in most situations could be anything from anywhere. At Calabretta, it is an affordable look into their mindset. Each batch is a multi-vintage blend of up to five different years, focused mostly if not exclusively on the Nerello Mascalese grape along with other native varietals. The greatness here is in the age of some portions, some a decade or more old, which allows you the chance to taste some of the aged elements that usually can't be found without hiding away a wine yourself. A pale ruby color with a bit of bricking at the edges, the aroma is a lovely mix of new and old, young red cherry with earth and leather, tart cranberry with savory underbrush. On the palate the younger parts give the fruit a bit of fresh weight, while the aged portions give the long fine tannins and lighter elegant finish. A mature and approachable wine that's ready to go without any work or time on your end; if you haven't started a wine cellar, this will make you want to start.
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October 2024
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