INSIDER'S PICK: NV TRENTAPIOLI ASPRINIO d'AVERSA SPUMANTE $19.99

Often with the wines in the Insider's Pick, we will use the story and background of the people or vineyards to help entice, gain a connection to the customer. In this case, the story of the vineyards IS the wine, and the fact that what's in the bottle is an affordable value is almost secondary. Asprino is a native grape to Campania, mostly relegated to farming in the region of Aversa just outside of Naples. The varietal itself is less famous for what it is and the wines it makes than how it is usually farmed, an ancient trellising method called 'Alberata'. Developed during the Etruscan era for use in multi-crop polycultural farms, vines are raised in rows using elm or poplar trees as 'stakes', allowing the vines to reach as high as 40+ feet in the air once fully mature. At the time it allowed for more production in a smaller piece of land while also leaving room for other ground crops and grazing, even providing shade for more sensitive crops. Now the vineyards are seen as time consuming to grow and dangerous to farm, requiring specially trained workers to climb and harvest. But don't try it JUST for the fascinating backstory, get into it because it's an impressive sparkling wine for the money. Clear pale gold in the glass with a lightly persistent bead, the first sniff is yeasty apple with a bit of bitter citrus peel (a nod to the fact that Asprino was named for its sourness), but the Alberata method does allow the grape to get sun exposure and air flow that helps it fully ripen, getting some of the white fruits into the mix. The palate is also crisp and cidery with nice weight and a long lingering tang. Both delicious and fascinating in equal measures.

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