 It's officially full-on Spring time, so it's a good time to start dipping into the incoming waves of new Rose releases. Provence is always a great place to start as they essentially specialize in producing their special style of Rose wine for the world, and there is always lots to choose from. l'Escarelle is a new (to us) producer, but has been received well in recent vintages (described as 'dangerously drinkable' in Vinous for the last vintage) and we were very excited about it for the price when we first got to sample. We think you will be as well. Light and fresh aromas of fresh citrus and wet herbs, classic Provencal nose that speaks so much of the Mediterranean coastal sunshine. The palate is loaded with watermelon and strawberry tones, but lightened by the cool mineral kick that gives you some tanginess on the finish. The label will of course draw many people in, but what's inside will keep you coming back for more. Don't wait for the press to tell you if it's good or not, because it could be long gone by then!
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 A little nicer than what we usually show in the Insider's Pick, but we wanted to get you as excited about this wine as we are, at least while there is still a bit of it to go around. It isn't often you get the chance to taste people on what is considered one of the very best versions of a grape variety, at least not without having to shell out big bucks to do so. Fiano is the variety, and the high altitude volcanic soils above Naples is considered the optimum site for it to reach it's greatest levels. This version of Fiano is from a single vineyard (Ciro 906 is the registered # of the parcel) that Picariello only feature in what they consider the best vintages. Surprisingly, the winery tends to prefer cooler vintages to do so, intensifying the acidity that allows this wine to evolve for many years after release. Loads of cool crushed stones and stone fruits on the nose, especially right out of the fridge, with warmer melon and pear coming out as it opens up and gets closer to room temperature (if you can leave it alone for that long). The palate is where the wine really separates itself from all others, flooding it with intense minerality, crisp pear and citrus zest, with a mouthfeel that is both big in size and remarkably clean and crystalline on the finish. For this special bottling the winery leaves it on the lees for a full year before bottling, giving the flavors more intensity and generally elevating the entire experience up an extra notch or two. Treat this like a Chablis or great Muscadet and pair it a colossal seafood dish or something fresh and Spring time-y.
 The return of one of our all-time favorite warm weather party sippers in liter form. Alsace is one of the great wine destinations in the world, providing both great juice AND natural/architectural excitement, keeping everyone's senses stimulated. It has in recent years grown more difficult to find value except in the largest of producers, and you tend to lose the charm of the region in most of those. All the more interesting (and surprising) to find a wine blend of this quality and value from one of the region's best-known creators of higher end varietal wines. Do the math here, and this is a $16.99 bottle of wine in a regular bottle, and you get to invite an extra friend over to enjoy it, if you want. The term Edelzwicker and Gentil d'Alsace both mean essentially the same thing as a blend of Alsatian varieties; Meyer-Fonne actually makes both using the same grapes in each, with the younger vines going into the Edelzwicker to make a more easy drinking and everyday wine. Classic Alsatian Five here of Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Muscat, Sylvaner and Gewurztraminer. Those that have a phobia about sweetness may worry about the Muscat and Gewurztraminer, but they are here purely for aromatics. This is drier than 95% of your oaky Chardonnays out there, and infinitely more complex and compelling. Loads of peach and white fruits on the nose with a little zesty lime and magnolia flower, pretty but not overpowering. A nice juicy body that gets a lot of the fruit on the palate, but also immediately minerally with lots of pear skin type drying tannins, leaving you with a nervy lime finish that begs for another sip. Very easy drinking and food friendly.
 Most wine drinkers 'know' the Piedmont region for the great wines of Barolo and Barbaresco or the prolific production from the areas of Alba and Asti. Recency bias has largely pushed the historical greatness of the Alto Piemonte to the background, so it always makes us happy when we find a wine that helps bring them forward again. At one point the Nebbiolo from Gattinara and Ghemme were every bit the equal of Barolo and Barbaresco, and there were tens of thousands of acres of vineyards across the region. The phylloxera blight decimated the region around the turn of the 20th century and WWII left it in ruins with the loss of workers leaving rural work for jobs in Milan. The winery named itself 'Il Centovigne', or 'One Hundred Vineyards', as their 20 or so acres of vineyards is spread over 37 tiny plots, a sign of the fractured state of the wine industry here. The less expensive wines from here can have a reputation for being lighter or leaner with the stronger Alpine influence, but this one lacks for nothing. Dusty cherry, earth and tobacco notes on the nose that gets a touch of sweetness and black pepper as the wine opens up, showing off the complexity of Nebbiolo. The palate has a juicier, less tannic attack than found in your typical Nebbiolo Langhe thanks to the inclusion of some Vespolina, a featured grape in Alto. It also brings a nice tart cranberry-like note to the finish that makes it more mouthwatering, lingering longer than the tannins and feels quite refreshing. A lovely and distinct Piedmonte red with loads of food possibilities from hearty vegetarian to rustic lighter meats.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
July 2024
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