INSIDER'S PICK: 2021 CASTELLO DI CASTELLENGO 'ROSSO DELLA MOTTA' VIN ROSSO $21.99

Most wine drinkers 'know' the Piedmont region for the great wines of Barolo and Barbaresco or the prolific production from the areas of Alba and Asti. Recency bias has largely pushed the historical greatness of the Alto Piemonte to the background, so it always makes us happy when we find a wine that helps bring them forward again. At one point the Nebbiolo from Gattinara and Ghemme were every bit the equal of Barolo and Barbaresco, and there were tens of thousands of acres of vineyards across the region. The phylloxera blight decimated the region around the turn of the 20th century and WWII left it in ruins with the loss of workers leaving rural work for jobs in Milan. The winery named itself 'Il Centovigne', or 'One Hundred Vineyards', as their 20 or so acres of vineyards is spread over 37 tiny plots, a sign of the fractured state of the wine industry here. The less expensive wines from here can have a reputation for being lighter or leaner with the stronger Alpine influence, but this one lacks for nothing. Dusty cherry, earth and tobacco notes on the nose that gets a touch of sweetness and black pepper as the wine opens up, showing off the complexity of Nebbiolo. The palate has a juicier, less tannic attack than found in your typical Nebbiolo Langhe thanks to the inclusion of some Vespolina, a featured grape in Alto. It also brings a nice tart cranberry-like note to the finish that makes it more mouthwatering, lingering longer than the tannins and feels quite refreshing. A lovely and distinct Piedmonte red with loads of food possibilities from hearty vegetarian to rustic lighter meats.

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