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INSIDER'S PICK: 2013 BENOIT BADOZ CHARDONNAY COTES DU JURA $19.99

7/23/2015

A familiar grape with a little bit of an unusual twist (as we are prone to do here) which results in a wine that is perfect for the more adventurous drinkers out there. Often when we see 'Chardonnay' in France away from Burgundy, the fear is that it's a transplant brought in for commercial purposes to sell in mass marketed wines that don't represent the area as well as native varieties. Thankfully, in this case the Jura actually does have a long standing relationship with the grape, especially in their remarkably Champagne-like sparkling Cremants, coexisting side by side with native grapes like Savagnin and Poulsard. Instead of taking over, it actually represents a very nice introduction into the wine styles of the very cool climate region that can be a bit extreme to some palates. Racy and naturally low in alcohol because of the cool Alpine climate, the aromas are full of citrus zest and stone fruits with a strong mineral/seashell note. Many of the wines from Jura will purposely have a slightly oxidized nutty note similar to sherry, but instead of going that route this wine uses only native naturally occurring yeasts to create the subtle flowery and savory notes that lie just below the surface. It's something that is very tricky to pluck out and describe, but definitely makes it stand out as different from a Burgundy grown less than 100 miles away. In the mouth the fruit is steely and mostly lemon and white melon rind at first, but the juice is aged on its lees to help bring more weight to the palate which becomes more obvious with every sip. Fans of Chablis will find this very much in their wheelhouse and will make a similarly outstanding match with shellfish and fresh seafood dishes.

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INSIDER'S PICK: 2013 LEO HILLINGER PINOT GRIS BURGENLAND $16.99

7/16/2015

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As a long-time Alsatian devotee, it almost pains me to type these words, but this Austrian bottling may just be the best value version of the Pinot Gris grape we've come across in years. Don't get me wrong, I'll never give up enjoying the rich, unctuous character found in the Alsatians (still one of the only white wines that can hold up to rich red meat roasts), but at the value level they sometimes loose their complexity and show more sweetness than expected. Not the case here. Once again Austria has shown it's ability to achieve both high quality ripeness and balancing acidity in dry wines that most other regions have to leave a touch sweeter to avoid tasting under-ripe and shrill. From first pour the aromas are full of juicy pear and melons with just enough green citrus and flowers mixed in to fend off any tropical sweetness, and as it opens up even pulls in a bit of fresh herbs and mintiness, in a sense 'cooling' the fruit aromas. The texture in the mouth is exceptional for a wine in this price point, loaded with pulpy fruit juiciness without a shread of lingering sugar or cloying softness, as the wine finishes with fine but not tongue searing acidity and lightly drying rind/fruit skin tannins. A great all-purpose food wine that works well for Summertime picnics as well as chasing away the humidity on its own.

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2014 DOMAINE LA BLAQUE ROSE PIERREVERT(VINOUS 90 Points) $15.99

7/9/2015

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Provence is of course legendary for their dry Rose, but in many ways it can suffer from being TOO general in its coverage. The region is extremely diverse in geography and environment, so to broadly lump all the wines together into one description and idea is a disservice. Over time they are starting to recognize more and more sub-regions that make sense, and wineries in those regions are taking advantage. Pierrevert is well into the interior of Provence among the forests and mountain ranges; if you are a Tour de France fan, stages 16 and 17 are very close to Pierrevert, though the vineyards are obviously in the flatter areas. While still enjoying the warmth and Mediterranean climate, the mountains bring a cooling influence, especially in the evening, that allows the wines to develop better acidity and a unique freshness. This rose uses the classic Provencal red grapes (Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault) as well as the white grape Vermentino. Salmon colored in the glass, there is plenty of subtle delicate fruit and savory herb aromas, as well as hints of white citrus and a slightly meaty tone that carries over from some of the red wines of the region as well, a bit of a regional signature. Surprisingly round and mouth-filling yet still fresh across the palate with no one big or dominant flavor, just many light layers of dried fruits and herbs passing through. This is a wine that doesn't try to be more than it should be, which makes it that much more satisfying and enjoyable, the perfect thing to break out in the heat of the next 6-8 weeks, if not beyond.

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INSIDER'S PICK: 2013 BENOIT BADOZ CHARDONNAY COTES DU JURA $19.99

INSIDER'S PICK: 2013 LEO HILLINGER PINOT GRIS BURGENLAND $16.99

2014 DOMAINE LA BLAQUE ROSE PIERREVERT(VINOUS 90 Points) $15.99

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