INSIDER'S PICK: 2013 LEO HILLINGER PINOT GRIS BURGENLAND $16.99

As a long-time Alsatian devotee, it almost pains me to type these words, but this Austrian bottling may just be the best value version of the Pinot Gris grape we've come across in years. Don't get me wrong, I'll never give up enjoying the rich, unctuous character found in the Alsatians (still one of the only white wines that can hold up to rich red meat roasts), but at the value level they sometimes loose their complexity and show more sweetness than expected. Not the case here. Once again Austria has shown it's ability to achieve both high quality ripeness and balancing acidity in dry wines that most other regions have to leave a touch sweeter to avoid tasting under-ripe and shrill. From first pour the aromas are full of juicy pear and melons with just enough green citrus and flowers mixed in to fend off any tropical sweetness, and as it opens up even pulls in a bit of fresh herbs and mintiness, in a sense 'cooling' the fruit aromas. The texture in the mouth is exceptional for a wine in this price point, loaded with pulpy fruit juiciness without a shread of lingering sugar or cloying softness, as the wine finishes with fine but not tongue searing acidity and lightly drying rind/fruit skin tannins. A great all-purpose food wine that works well for Summertime picnics as well as chasing away the humidity on its own.