INSIDER'S PICK: 2013 ANTHILL FARMS GRENACHE STEEL PLOW VINEYARD SONOMA VALLEY $23.99

Most wines are made from extensive planning and many months if not years of  forethought. Sometimes a wine comes from a great winery being in the right place at the right time to create an isolated moment of brilliance. Anthill Farms has built a strong reputation over the last decade primarily for their cool climate Pinot Noirs from Anderson Valley and the foggy Western vineyards of Sonoma, filled with vibrant acidity and elegant, complex red fruits. The majority of their grapes come from contracted vineyards sourced from various farmers across the regions, and usually they receive exactly what they planned for and nothing more. In 2013 a grower had extra Grenache (either through a larger than usual crop size or a contract that went unclaimed) offered to them on the cheap, which gave the crew at Anthill to step outside their usual realm and attempt a one time effort they could roll out at an exceptional price for the quality.
Slightly pale and ruby red in the glass, this is obviously not your standard jammy and fruit forward Grenache typically found in the Rhone or Spain and emulated much of the warmer parts of the world. Crunchy red fruits and dried spices abound on the nose that gain more cherry sweetness as it opens up but never get sappy or cloying. On the palate the acidity is lively and very penetrating, almost calling to mind some of the Old World Italian or Spanish wines from nearly forgotten grapes off harsh, unforgiving soils. Patience is rewarded for letting the wine breathe for an hour or more, as the more familiar juicy textures start to appear and soften the edges of  the acidity, but it never looses its fine edge or remarkable vibrancy. All too often Pinot Noir is made to appeal to the big fruit Grenache drinker, but here we work in the other direction as this is clearly a Grenache made to appeal to the Pinot drinker.