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INSIDER'S PICK: 2013 S.C.E.A. CHANRION COTE-de-BROUILLY (Vinous 92points)

3/16/2017

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Most people only think of aging the the 'blue chip' wines in their cellar, like Bordeaux, Burgundy, Barolo, and Californian Cabernets to name but a few. They will often then quickly wonder why they have a collection of many cases of wines and NONE of them are ready to drink for another 6-10 years. Another one of our favorite Wine Warehouse lessons is how well great wines from lesser reputation growing areas can do with some time in the bottle, and what's even better is that they rarely need the extensive cellaring to show those results. People think most Beaujolais is fading out within a year or two of the vintage, so why would they want to bother hiding any away? At the bottom end, you would be right, but the great producers are hidden gems that not only survive but thrive with some time in the cellar. Chanrion is a part of the legendary Kermit Lynch portfolio, whose Beaujolais producers are among the most important in the region over the last 30+ years. A single 6.5 hectare parcel of 50+ year old vines is all this one woman operation works, but it produces an exemplary wine every year that stands among the best produced, and a wine that has the track record to evolve for a decade or more. Plus, having received some 'end-of-vintage' pricing, we can bring this wine just starting to mature to you for $6-$8 less than its usual price.

Though not as 'hyped' as the vintages on either side, this '13 has loads of color and a full aroma of dusty cherries and soft strawberry fruits, with that savory side of herbs and salty meats only found with the more artisan Beaujolais producers that are using native yeasts which don't create that 'bubble gum' fruitiness too often found in the larger producers. The palate is still tart and lively with nice weight that shows off the red fruit skin tones, and grows more complex as it opens up, starting to show the earliest signs of bottle time with some Pinot Noir-esque earthy tones. As it opens up the subtle complexity continuously changes and evolves but never looses the refreshing tart lip-smacking tart tones that shows this still has a decent amount of life ahead. This is the type of wine that can be played with for at least up to a decade past the vintage, always providing something new and interesting to go back to, and you would never have expected it from a Beaujolais.


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