The Godello grape is the poster child for everything that is good about Spanish wine and its evolution over the last 25+ years. The grape is native to the Gallician part of Spain, as well as some of the higher altitudes of Old Castile along the border, but was over-planted during the rush to 'internationalize' the grape production. Before the tide turned and growers were encouraged to plant Godello again there was less than 100 acres in production, some of which were over 100 years old at the time. The production is much healthier now, and the grape is the cornerstone of wine production in areas like Valdeorras, where it is quickly becoming as substantial and important a white wine as Albarino. Greenish gold in the glass, the aromas are full impact and what Godello is all about, with lots of citrus and stone fruits, hints of an Albarino-like floral prettiness, and lots of cool vibrant zest. On the palate the texture has a bit of a Chardonnay-like roundness (which is why some producers are experimenting with some barrel aging), but at its most basic and happiest form the texture shows off all the lively citrus the grape carries so easily. An incredibly quenching and juicy wine that's at its best with savory and/or citrusy poultry and rich seafood dishes.
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October 2024
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