INSIDER'S PICK: 2014 CELLAR MENDALL LAUREANO SERRES 'CAIBELLES' RED $29.99

One thing we enjoy about wines here is being able to present unique wines from around the world. We like to use the word 'identity' when we can, a wine that has a true sense of place. No contrived marketing, no focus group that tells what the wine SHOULD taste like, no desire to make a wine just so it appeals to as wide a population as possible. At the other end of the spectrum is a wine like this, built from a single older vine site in the Catalonian town of Pinell de Brai, and the blend of grapes comes from how the vineyard is planted. In the case of a producer like Mendall, there is the added distinct individuality in each wine from using the native yeasts from each vineyard to accomplish the fermentation instead of commercial yeasts. All this results in layers and layers of signature, distinctive flavors that provide a wine that is completely its own.

We will also be the first ones to admit, this individuality may not rub everyone the right way. The aromatics are dark with lots of plum and currants, a lot more savory than sweet in profile with notes of wild game and sun baked clay. There is also the suggestion of a yeasty note that comes with many wines that do native yeast fermentation, almost citrusy, but it does evolve away as the wine opens up and the dark fruits build. The mouthfeel is massive and chewy, lots of tannin and unfiltered texture which really drives the gamey flavors across the palate. It is definitely not a 'pop and go' wine for the evening; we have thrown part of the wine into a decanter today already, and anticipate this showing well all the way through the weekend. Many may prefer some wines with more immediate gratification, but those looking for a truly unique experience to stash in the cellar or play with over a weekend will enjoy this rare gem.

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