INSIDER'S PICK: 2014 CVNE RIOJA CRIANZA 'VINA REAL' (Vinous 90pts)

CVNE is one of the oldest and most important producers in Rioja by any and all measurements. Established in 1879, the Compañía Vinícola del Norte del España (Northern Spanish Wine Company, also dubbed 'Cune' in many English speaking markets) was among the very first Spanish wineries to focus on modern standards of quality, and are still owned by descendants of the establishing families. Over many decades they have cultivated several properties that developed a broad array of groundbreaking wines, pioneering many innovations in vineyard and winery technology while still maintaining a foothold in the traditional character of Rioja. The company operates 4 separate wineries which oversee their own vineyards and cultivate their own wines, most of which have been continuously overseen and produced by CVNE since their inception. Vina Real was established nearly 100 years ago and focuses on making wines from the Rioja Alavesa region. Their wines have generally been considered more 'modern' in character for the CVNE portfolio, but only by comparison to the staunch traditional presence of the other historic wines in their portfolio.

A traditional makeup of primarily Tempranillo with the balance comprised of a varying ratio of Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo, this Crianza is immediately more interesting that the top bottling from most wineries. Loads of currants and dark briary fruit come forth quickly mixed with distinct Rioja dirt and dust. On the palate the texture is as first polished, almost Burgundian, with the more persistent tannins showing up only at the finish, allowing the dark fruit and almost balsamic savory tones to show through. As part of the Vina Real line this wine has some of the sharper edges buffed off it so that it has a more immediate drinking character to it, but tasting the wine as it opens up leaves little doubt it can also be cellared for a longer haul.

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