INSIDER'S PICK: 2014 DOMAINE DELORME POUILLY-FUISSE 'SUR LA ROCHE' $21.99

In Burgundy probably more than any other wine growing area, it's all about location, location, location. Walking 50 yards in any direction within the vineyards can bring about noticeable soil changes, and crossing from one plot to another can find you in parcels whose reputations for quality provide wines that cost 2X-3X of their neighbors. In Pouilly-Fuisse, the sweet spot is at the base of the Roche de Vergisson, the fossilized coral formation that thrusts high above the vineyards. The rock is one of the cradles of  prehistoric civilization and has been studied for centuries by paleontologist along with the nearby Roche de Soultre. For wine, being along its base means the soils contain large amounts of the fossilized rock that have fell during centuries of erosion, infusing more minerality and subtlety into the naturally rich Chardonnay. In pictured from the Sur La Roche vineyards one can see only a few parcels sitting between it and the tree line at the base of Vergisson, so we know it's a premium plat.

Bright straw in the glass, the nose is full of fresh pulpy fruit with a touch of mineral and sweet apple in the background. No sign of any oak here, which is often over-used with Pouilly-Fuisse to emphasize the richness; the quality of the fruit here is plenty rich on it's own, and doesn't need enhancement. On the palate the texture is juicy and plush at first, then slowly builds the fine minerality, pricking up the apple tones behind the white fruit. Nothing profound here, which is just fine because it is successful without trying too hard, and is immensely enjoyable on its own or with a meal.