INSIDER'S PICK: 2014 DOMAINE FAURY SYRAH I.G.P. COLLINES RHODANIENNES $21.99

Syrah from the Northern Rhone is unlike Syrah from anywhere else in the world. For many people their experience is largely from Australian, Southern Californian or other warm climate region wines that possess a rich, forward fruit that is strong and almost sweet in style. And there is nothing wrong with that. At all. But the cooler climate of the Northern Rhone, where the vineyards often hang from impossibly steep terraces along the river in the famous areas of Cote-Rotie, Hermitage and St Joseph, creates wines that in many ways have more in common with the Pinot Noirs from Burgundy just to the North. The weight, lower alcohol levels, and even many of the vinification processes result in wines of finesse and elegance instead of raw power. Unfortunately, the steep vineyards make it nearly mandatory to do everything by hand, which makes it very difficult to find any inexpensive wines to learn the style. There is 'value' to be had, especially from great artisan producers like Faury, who have been part of the famous Kermit Lynch import portfolio for almost as long as they have been in existence. This bottling comes from a single parcel of younger vines on the granite plateau just outside the St Joseph appellation, and with the exception of barrel aging sees the same vinification as their higher end wines; hand harvesting, partial de-stemming, and traditional fermentation methods.

Youthful in color, the first aromas are all violets and dark dried fruits that get deeper and more into the blue fruits as it opens up. Nothing sugary or overpowering at all, more cool and savory. On the palate it is quintessential Northern Rhone flavor and texture, full of blueberry skin, currants and dark herbs on a moderate body with fine tannins and acidity that leaves a long mouthwatering finish. The use of stems in the winemaking is noticeable in the texture as it brings out the peppery notes of the fruits and limits some of the sweeter aromatics. This is a classic example of a traditional Syrah without any modern trappings, and fans of the style will be thrilled with what the get for the price.