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INSIDER'S PICK: 2014 RENEGADE WINE CO. RED WINE COLUMBIA VALLEY $15.99

2/1/2018

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Walla Walla based Sleight Of Hand Cellars has made a strong reputation over the last decade for crafting high quality reds from premium vineyards across the state, as well as ingratiating themselves into various pop- and counter-culture realms thanks to well placed appearances on TV shows and rock star stages. It can be hard for even a successful winery like this to sell through a lineup of just high end wines, even when receiving great press. So like many other smaller wineries, they have a 'second label' that allows them to create less expensive wines that sell through quicker without doing any perceived 'damage' to the reputation of the more expensive wines. These wines are often wines of opportunity, finding fruit on the cheap from a good source that has more fruit than expected, and so can be very mercurial in the blends of grapes. But the standard for quality still has to be met, so if you trust in the talent of the winemaking team you ride the ride, and are almost always met with a phenomenal value like this one.

The term 'Red Wine' is a constant on this label, but Cabernet Sauvignon is generally the backbone of the blend, and this year's version is a high enough percentage that it could have been labeled as a Cab had they chosen. Deep saturated purple in the glass with rich aromas of black fruits, cassis and graphite, and just a slight pop of extra perfume from the Cabernet Franc in the blend. The palate is quintessential Washington State Cab, delivering a saturated dark fruit explosion with surprisingly silky tannins and a bit of grip on the finish helped on by the Malbec. Fans of a more elegant style may prefer a Californian Cab or a Bordeaux, but you would be hard pressed to find ANYTHING from those regions that deliver the goods the way this does for the price. If you are already a Washington State wine fan, then you've hit the jackpot.


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