With an Indian Summer that just won't quit, it's probably a good idea to keep on the lookout for more white wines that work well in the transition from the warmer to cooler months. Something with a little more body and flesh to it, not necessarily needing to be refreshing as its primary purpose, but still with flavor and intrigue. Vermentino is absolutely one of those grapes. Popular throughout the Italian and French Mediterranean coasts (known in France as Rolle), it is most identified in Italy by the extreme coastal North region of Liguria and the Southern island of Sardinia. About halfway or so in between lies the region of Maremma, which represents the coastline of Tuscany and is often forgotten as a wine growing region when compared to its more metropolitan neighbors inland neat Florence and Siena. The region is warmer than Tuscany, providing wines with a bit more fruit than those from the interior, yet because they aren't part of the historic tourist pathways the wines are relatively undiscovered. Tasting wines like this should help remedy that. Warming golden in color, the first aromas are equally warming with rich Mediterranean citrus and pear skins, as well as a hint of cooling mint in the background. The complexity on the nose is truly almost that of a masterful mixed cocktail where there is absolutely no sign of the alcohol. The palate is round and very smooth, filled with citrus and pear skin tannins that leave a long spicy finish. This is a great wine to work in with fish or poultry dishes that have bold, spicy flavors, Tex-Mex, strong chowders, and the like.
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October 2024
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