The move to more environmental conscious wines worldwide has made for a much healthier and diverse industry. Not only are the vineyards and lands around them better protected, it helps to bring out more distinct flavors and styles of wines, more choices for everyone. When all wineries are using the same 'recipe' for their grapes, fermenting with the same yeast strains, and aging their wines with the same tank or barrel program, it's should be no surprise that there is a same-ness that pervades through those wines. The downside is that the natural wines are more labor intensive, lots of time in the vineyards doing work by hand, and the pricing can be more prohibitive to people trying them on their own. More vineyards every year are making these conversions which is helping, as well as great importers striving to find the best possible interesection of craftmanship and affordability. This is one of the best deals we have found so far, a long established Biodynamic estate from the Loire that also run a self-sustaining farm whose wines epitomize the naturalist movement while still delivering value. This is the 'baby brother' to their 'Cuvee Prestige' bottling we have featured in the past, which featured their oldest vines and saw some time in barrel. This is made from their younger vines and aged in tanks to promote a more accessible style, but is equally charming in its own way and an even better price. Tart red cherry fruit and the classic Cabernet Franc prettiness come out at first, with darker red fruits evolving out as it opens. The fruit always stays on the savory side, the smells of the fruit still in the berry patch or on the vine, not the sweetened juice or jelly side. On the palate the wine has great weight for a wine at only 12%abv, which is a Godsend for people that find too many of the lower abv wines thin. The use of native yeasts bring out so much of the local complexity, and the minimalist process in the winery allows them to leave the wine unfiltered and very little SO2 to help maximize the flavor and texture. A pretty and 'pure' type of wine that has all sorts of food possibilities. If you have ever wanted to taste how the natural wines are different from others, this is the time to do it.
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July 2024
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