One of the great Spring traditions, like the start of baseball season and flowers in bloom, is the arrival of new white wine vintages. Examples from the 2015 harvest all across the great winegrowing regions of the Northern hemisphere are starting to arrive, ready to be chilled down as the temperatures rise. The Loire in particular is a treasure trove of youthful whites, especially over he last few decades as more focus has been placed on the smaller producers found outside the mainstream. Sure, there are still plenty of great wins to be had from the more famous areas like Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume, and Vouvray (and we absolutely enjoy the dickens out of them), but the most stunning values appear at other stops along the river. The DeLaille family has been stewards of Domaine Salvard in Cheverny for five generations, and one of the top names in this underappreciated appellation smack dab in the middle of the Loire's historic Chateaux. The wines under the Domaine's name adhere to the AOC regulations and blend in a bit of Chardonnay, but the 'Unique' is a pure expression of the Sauvignon Blanc grape. When esteemed importer Kermit Lynch hails their wines as 'one of the greatest values for Sauvignon Blanc perfection', you have to take notice. And we do, every chance we get. Clear and just slightly golden in the glass, this wine always has an aroma unlike other Sauv Blancs from the surrounding Touraine region (implied by the 'Unique' name, I guess), never fruity, strongly savory and almost a cool mint streak. Also very fresh, as if the herbs have just been torn and the oils are still wet on your hands. On the palate the texture is more juicy and generous, and the pulpier white fruit characters come through, but there is still a nice nervy tone through the finish that makes you thirsty for more.The acidity may be a bit much for those that prefer a more tropical New World style Sauvignon Blanc, but for Loire fans it's hard to imagine a better wine in your glass for the money.
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July 2024
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