INSIDER'S PICK: 2015 SEAN MINOR ZINFANDEL 'H. MYNORS OLD VINE CUVEE $14.99

As an homage to the people and wineries in California affected by the rash of wildfires this last week, we put out a wine for tasting that represents California very well. First off, Zinfandel probably is culturally the most significant grape in California, with hundreds of vineyard sites that cross generations of families in Sonoma, Napa, the Sierra Foothills, and others that connect back to the Italian immigrants that brought the vines over. Back then it was known as Primitivo, and it was planted in mixed vineyards with other varieties, but over time the variety prospered and came to dominate new vineyards as they were expanded. While many wineries still famously make 'field blends' from what the sites are planted to, Zinfandel tends to be the star. There is still a cultural 'hangover' in the perception that Zinfandel is a sweet wine, due largely to the White Zinfandel craze of the past, but also to the high presence of mass marketed Zin based blends that hide a LOT of residual sugar behind the term 'Smooth' and 'Bold' on the labels. A well made Zinfandel, like this one, can be a wine with bold flavors and smooth textures without leaving excess sugar behind to hide the deficiencies.

Deep purple color in the glass but with some clarity around the edges, this shows a lovely nose of warm red and black fruits with some dark baking spice and a slight touch of toasted oak (only 15% new barrels used), but nothing candied or over-amplified, and no boozy tones from excess or out of balance alcohol. The first sip is ample on the palate with loads of currant and black cherry flavors, and the tannins are very fine to allow a smooth and pleasant mouthfeel, but it's accomplished with absolutely no sticky or melted jelly sensations, even finishing with a dusty grape skin or peppery note that's undeniably dry. This has a lot more in common with the old school, food friendly Zins of the past, marrying some savory to the fruit and making it much more versatile.

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