INSIDER'S PICK: 2015 WEINGUT MULLER-GROSSMANN RIESLING KREMSTAL STEINER POINT $23.99

It isn't often that we get to celebrate a matriarchy winery. Throughout history in pretty much every wine producing country, the mantle of winemaker or vineyard manager has passed from father to son. Family vineyards would often pass to daughters as inheritance or as a wedding dowry, but were usually be subsumed by the male family name. So it is rare to have a female run winery where the mother is 1st generation winemaker and decision maker, and the daughter is poised to take over in the future. Helma Muller-Grossmann began running the small domaine in 1986, and daughter Marlies recently joined her to help with marketing/distribution in 2009, with an eye to take over for her mother if/when she ever decides to slow down. They have even been leading members of  "11 Frauen & Ihre Weine" (11 Women & Their Wine), which helps support other females in the Austrian wine industry. Aside from being made by women, the wines are exceptional. Their Gruner Veltliner was part of our Select Six last month, and now with the Riesling in play we are looking forward to even more possibilities from them.

Many people have a bias against Riesling that it is a) too sweet, or b) too austere when done in a dry manner. This wine simultaneously destroys both preconceptions. Beautiful aromas of cool white orchard fruits with racy notes of lime and wintergreen oil; perhaps the slightest hint of the unique 'petrol' aroma many drier Riesings can have, but quickly vanishes with air. On the palate the texture is round and juicy, but without a shred of sweetness to be found anywhere. The flavors are all limes and a mix of tart apples, with a lengthy citrus skin and crunchy apple texture that gives it a snappy dry finish. An extremely versatile food wine (the ladies recommend curried chicken with rice or Arctic Char), but the food choices are almost limitless.

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