INSIDER'S PICK: 2016 EARLY MOUNTAIN ROSE $19.99

Not all Rose wines are created equally, especially in Virginia. Many are made just to satisfy the demand for a trend, leaving a bit of sugar behind just to distract from the blase quality of mediocre grapes and make it somewhat palatable. Grapes that are good enough to make decent Rose are usually needed to make more of the red wines, so there never seems to be enough of the good stuff to last through the Summer. One of the reasons we like what Early Mountain is doing with their rose program is they take it seriously from the very beginning of the growing season, designating blocks of vines to go into the wine and preparing it all the way through harvest. These blocks are harvested earlier than the rest of the harvest to retain acidity and pull out the refreshing lower alcohol character that makes the best Provencal wines so desirable. No afterthought assembly here. 

Primarily a Merlot base, this year's creation has a strong influence from Syrah (a rarely planted grape in VA) and touches of Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Beautiful pale salmon color in the glass, the aromas capture the refreshingly dried side of cherries and strawberries, with a nice pop of fresh herbs and rainwater. The palate is straight out of the Provence textbook as well, mouthfilling and quenching at the same time with lots of tingly acidity and clean light fruit. This has no interest in being a fruity cocktail wine, but a perfect brunch or snacking wine with ceviche or light cheeses as well as cool salmon or chicken dishes.

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