INSIDER'S PICK: 2016 MAS AMIEL COTES DU ROUSSILLON ROUGE 'VERTIGO' (Wine Advocate 89-91pts) $20.99

The Roussillon region once had a stronger reputation for making fortified wines than for 'table wines'. In times when lighter more elegant wines were prized by the French and much of the wine consumers of the world, the red wines of Roussillon were considered too strong in alcohol and thickly extracted due to the warm and dry climate. After a time of transition the region is gaining a new-found reputation for the quality of table wines, but in most cases it has been at the expense of the fortified wines. Mas Amiel is among the few producers to maintain the production of both quality fortified wines off their estate in Maury as well as add/develop production of great table wines. The region uses the popular Rhone/Mediterranean varieties like Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, etc., and like the Rhone the diversity found from blend to blend and site to site is seemingly endless.

Vertigo represents the estate's entry level wine and uses the youngest parcels from the property, for this vintage just Grenache and Syrah but at times can add Carignan. No oak is used, seeing only tank and concrete vats until bottling, to produce a rich and immediately accessible wine that shows off the liveliness and complexity the region can achieve. Huge immediate nose of blackberry, currants and fresh asphalt (meant as a compliment), with no signs of heat or booziness that historically plagued many Roussillon wines. The choice of using no oak really shows through on the palate as the grapes already have plenty natural tannin and texture, allowing the dark fruit to show through with plenty of energy and little astringency. As the wine opens up over several hours the aromas become more intense and the flavors get deeper and richer, but it never verges into the fruity or sweeter tones. A very modern style of wine, but one that will encourage many people to to the Roussillon to go out and pursue more of the same.

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