When you have grape vines isolated on an island for many centuries, unique things start to happen. The varieties evolve in their own environment, mutate, and over time can become vastly different from what they are on the mainland. Sometimes they can even become different from themselves on the same island, if the terrain can isolate them enough. Graciano is a variety primarily known in Spain as a background compliment to Tempranillo in Rioja, but at some point was brough over to Sardinia and became prolific across the island. Over time the Sardinians developed at least 20 synonyms for the grape, and have at least two recognized named varieties that came from the common ancestor, Bovale and Cagnulari. They are distinct enough to have this producer bottle them each separately as their own wines, so they definitely find signature differences within each grape. Bright and savory fruit with a bit of tartness to the red fruit aromas, getting bolder and a bit of sweeter berry tones as it opens and the more rustic sides wear off. Has a rustic side to the palate as well, typical of the wilder nature of the island, but not as chewy as their Bovale by comparison, a bit brighter flavors coming through on the still relatively tannic finish. Unique and fun to try, tasty to match with rustic grilled meats and hearty vegetables.
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October 2024
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