A favorite way to find great values in the wine world is to look for wines that are 'greatness adjacent'. Often that can be something sourced from a vineyard that borders a famous site, getting a piece of the terroir and environment for a portion of the price. Many producers will also 'declassify' parts of their harvest, removing those lots from highly regarded vineyards if they feel they may weaken the quality of their top bottlings. These lots (often just younger replanted vines or lots that were left over after making a blend to a specific percentage) will go into more everyday wines that generally are not built to age nearly as long or as well. Usually the wines made are blends of multiple sites from various appellations or sold to bigger blender producers, so any distinct character is muddled. Occasionally you will have a mindful (usually smaller) producer that can make their everyday wine from one area, choosing to not supplement the volume by buying from another grower if they don't have to, and just making the wine from this declassified juice. Some of our favorite examples of this have been from our Nebbiolo Langhe producers, where the wine is 100% declassified Barolo or Barbaresco juice made without the extensive time in oak or need for cellaring. The Matrot house is one of the most noted in Meursault, with some of the largest holdings in the appellation and in most of its finest vineyards. 100% of the fruit from this 'basic' Bourgogne comes from Meursault, just from declassified lots, making this likely the least expensive opportunity to taste one of Burgundy's most distinct and touted areas. Clean in character with only a hint of oak presence, the aroma is immediately identifiable as Meursault by rich peach and that distinct hazelnut/brioche that makes many people think Meursault is oakier than it really is. Since this is a lighter than usual presentation of Meursault fruit you also get a bit more apple and citrus on the nose. The palate is likewise lighter and zippier, a lot more bright apple to the finish without the luxurious extraction, but still shows nice natural weight and round pear tones. This wine absolutely has that 'Aha! THAT'S what Meursault is!' character, especially when tasted beside a Macon or other similarly priced Bourgogne, and with the real deal generally starting at 2x this price or more, what a great deal to enjoy it!
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October 2024
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