INSIDER'S PICK: 2021 I. BRAND/PAYSAN CHARDONNAY MONTEREY COUNTY JACKS' HILL $21.99

Many consumers think of Chardonnay as one very general category of wine type, and the idea of 'California Chardonnay' is even further homogenized together, the only differences being 'cheap' vs 'expensive' or 'bad' vs 'good'. Oaky and buttery flavors are usually the primary flavors that get associated with these Chardonnays, but they aren't the flavors of the grape itself. They are added on through the barrel aging process, they don't HAVE to be there, the grape can present itself with more nuance without a lot of help. More and more these days there are producers pulling back on the reins of their barrel use, especially when they have access to a unique and distinctive vineyard site like this one. Jacks' Hill is just inland from what is probably Monterey's most famous vineyard (Sleepy Hollow) and contains some very under-appreciated older parcels that winemaker Ian Brand sources for this wine, which he builds with multi-use oak barrel, concrete and steel tanks to get a Chablis-inspired wine that still has a lot of the Californian earmarks. Rich lemon curd and zesty tropical fruit aromas with cool and tempering mineral notes that get bolder the longer the wine opens up. The palate has plenty of leesy fruit flesh and melon skin texture, and a distinct extra oompf of rich fruit that is the signature of the Wente Chardonnay clone, which even without a lot of oaky/buttery flavors is about as Californian as you can get. Great for sipping but outstanding with all sorts of fleshier seafood and white meat dishes, really versatile.

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