INSIDER'S PICK: CVA CANICATTI NERO d'AVOLA SICILIA 'CENTUNO' $19.99

Sicily has been getting a lot of deserved attention over the past few decades for the re-emergence of their wines into the international scene. Most recently it has been on the wines from Mount Etna and the unique varieties that populate the volcanic soils, rediscovering 'new old stock' of ancient forgotten vineyards that provide unique Old World charm. In the rush of finding these wines, it's easy to forget the workhorse grapes like Nero d'Avola that dominate the rest of the island and are the backbone of their industry. The dark and hearty grape has some similarity to Syrah, and in some of the modern versions is blended together to give new consumers a familiar place to start. But the grape has lots of natural charms that shows through when done solo, and this example from one of Sicily's best co-operatives puts them all on full display.

Deep and saturated in the glass, the aromas are equally intense with loads of dark red and black fruits, as well as the prominent dusty earth tone that is usually a Nero d'Avola signature. The palate is equally full, but avoids the sweet or sappy fruit notes, instead going into savory game, violets, cherry skins, and an almost tart juiciness. This has the hearty character of a Rhone, but with a sensibility and mix of flavors that is distinctly Italian. A great option for beefy roasts and savory slow cooked 'comfort foods'.

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