INSIDER'S PICK: DOGA DELLE CLAVULE MORELLINO DI SCANSANO (WINE SPECTATOR 90points) $17.99
Most Americans, even the savvy tourists, may not be familiar with the Italian city of Grosseto and the region of Morelino di Scansano, or even aware that it's part of Tuscany. As a coastal city almost exactly equidistant from Florence and Rome, it just doesn't have the historical or cultural significance to make the buses stop in the same way a city like Pisa does, lucky enough to have a crooked bell tower everyone want to take a picture of pretending to hold it upright. Also not quite close enough to the coastline to be considered a 'beachfront' city to attract the locals for a Mediterranean getaway. But like every region of Italy, they do make wine, and their coastal influence allows them to make wines unlike any others in Tuscany. The warming influences from the sea provide for a richer character to the Sangiovese they grow (Morellino is the local name for the Sangiovese grape), and has also allowed grapes like Syrah, Grenache and Alicante Bouchet to thrive as well, giving those grapes fair use in the Scansano DOCG. The resulting wines carry a certain Tuscan signature polish, but can be much warmer and wilder depending on the amount of Sangiovese used. You also see a fair number of experimentation with 'naturalist' winemaking and other innovative styles, thanks to the lower cost of vines here and relatively low scrutiny on traditional styles, giving producers the freedom to explore and create their own paths.
Rich and warming on the nose, there are hints of a Chianti-like dark fruit and leathery tones behind the spice and cherry that pop forth almost immediately, gaining a touch more savory and structured tone as it opens up. The palate is richer and a bit more saturated than the usual Tuscan wine, but shows a lot less of the juiciness than it shows on the nose, with a lot of dark leather, anise, and currant flavors. At the same time, expecting a chewier tannin to come along with the flavors, the feel is actually very fine and approachable, only showing a bit of dustiness that lingers on the finish. The familiar side of this wine works in well with all sorts of traditional red meat dishes you could use a Chianti for, while the warmer fruit side gives you license to try it with hearty dishes that may have a bit of heat of aggressive spice to them as well.
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