INSIDER'S PICK: NV BODEGAS MUGA CONDE DE HARO CAVA BRUT ROSE (Wine Advocate 90points) $29.99

For the last tasting of our 24th Anniversary, we figured we should celebrate properly with some fine bubbly. But as we always do, we have to do it with something unexpected that delivers far better quality than usually found at its price point. Bodegas Muga is one of the benchmark Rioja producers, with wines that excel in both traditional and modern styles. In recent years the family has been exploring more and more of the 'modern' side with releases of new projects featuring fresher styled white wines, French influenced dry Rose, and even Cava. This is a 'Cava' by the winemaking process and NOT by location of vineyards or grapes used, as this is 100% Garnacha from Rioja based vines. Perhaps this looks a bit like a gimmick at first, but with the reputation of quality Muga has one will figure out quickly this is built to be some serious juice. Among the many quality-centric steps the winery takes is the extended time aging on the lees in the bottle (aprox. 22 months) before disgorgement, which add a deep yeasty complexity that usually only appears in the better Champagnes and French Cremants, or the occasional Cava.

Soft salmon color in the glass, surprising considering that usually still wines made from Garnacha/Grenache tend to have a deeper cherry red tint to them. The aromas hint at some of the warmer red fruits Garnacha carries, but also shows off lots of citrus and biscuit-y yeasts. On the palate the weight is particularly impressive thanks to the lees aging, delivering great dryness and intensity with lots of dried strawberry and lively red fruits. The acidity is almost startlingly fresh as well, again considering that Garnacha usually makes lower acidity still wines. Consider this experiment an unqualified success, worthy of any celebration or dinner where a dry Sparkling Rose would be useful, and you don't want or need to blow out the budget.

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