 As we approach full Beaujolais-mania the week before Thanksgiving, we wanted to show off some under-the-radar but surprisingly delicious Gamay, grown near the region for centuries but new in this form. If you go high enough up in Lyon you can look North and see the hills and ridges in the distance that define Beaujolais. Turning East and looking up the Rhone River, you can see the Alps in the distance with the Savoie region in the foothills. In the in-between lies Bugey, an area known historically for making a sparkling 'Methode Ancestrale' wine using Gamay, usually slightly sweet and a rose to ruby color. Still wines weren't usually attempted here much because the cooler Alpine influences made it more difficult to ripen grapes as easily as in Beaujolais, and the rolling hills here meant the vineyards are mostly scattered from ridge to ridge. Growing popularity for lower alcohol wines in general has spurred new interest in the potential for making still wines here with Gamay (as well as Poulsard, Jacquere and other Alpine grapes), and the more we see from promising producers like this, the more we agree this is a region to watch. Lovely ruby color in the glass, perhaps a bit darker than your typical Cru Beaujolais, but at under 13%abv it definitely isn't thicker or heavier. Cool red fruits and dark energetic floral notes immediately marks this as Gamay, and gets prettier the longer it is open. The palate is where this really shows itself as something different, with a distinct spine of acidity that brightens the fruit and adds a lot of tangy cranberry notes and a little firmer finish. Beaujolais is great, but it isn't the only game in town now.
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 We had considered placing this wine in the big Thanksgiving wine email that was just sent out, but decided it had to be tasted to be believed. Brachetto is a unique red grape variety to the Piedmont in Italy, more famous there for making a Moscato d'Asti-like wine, lightly fizzy with sweet red fruits. The grape has naturally flowery aromas, similar in many ways to the Ruche grape (also from the Piedmont) in that if you closed your eyes you could be convinced by the aromas that it was a white wine. Perhaps being driven by a general move away from sweetness/sugar in beverages, but we are seeing dry examples like this pop up more and more, and this is the most exciting one we've had by a fair margin. Pale-ish ruby in color, the aromas jump out quickly with loads of red flowers, orange citrus and hints of mint and darker spices. Patient drinkers or those that decant will start to get more red fruits and juicy cherry the longer it breathes. The palate is a surprising contrast to the aromas, more tart red fruits and savory herbs, bright fine tannins that give the finish a long mouthwatering finish. Would almost parallel the palate to a Cru Beaujolais or a still Lambrusco, and would pair it accordingly. Probably not like anything you've had before, and after tasting it you will likely want more of it in your life.
 Often with the wines in the Insider's Pick, we will use the story and background of the people or vineyards to help entice, gain a connection to the customer. In this case, the story of the vineyards IS the wine, and the fact that what's in the bottle is an affordable value is almost secondary. Asprino is a native grape to Campania, mostly relegated to farming in the region of Aversa just outside of Naples. The varietal itself is less famous for what it is and the wines it makes than how it is usually farmed, an ancient trellising method called 'Alberata'. Developed during the Etruscan era for use in multi-crop polycultural farms, vines are raised in rows using elm or poplar trees as 'stakes', allowing the vines to reach as high as 40+ feet in the air once fully mature. At the time it allowed for more production in a smaller piece of land while also leaving room for other ground crops and grazing, even providing shade for more sensitive crops. Now the vineyards are seen as time consuming to grow and dangerous to farm, requiring specially trained workers to climb and harvest. But don't try it JUST for the fascinating backstory, get into it because it's an impressive sparkling wine for the money. Clear pale gold in the glass with a lightly persistent bead, the first sniff is yeasty apple with a bit of bitter citrus peel (a nod to the fact that Asprino was named for its sourness), but the Alberata method does allow the grape to get sun exposure and air flow that helps it fully ripen, getting some of the white fruits into the mix. The palate is also crisp and cidery with nice weight and a long lingering tang. Both delicious and fascinating in equal measures.
 For Halloween, we wanted to throw out to everyone a 'Tricky Treat', a wine that's unexpectedly thrilling on the inside despite appearing rather ordinary on the outside. Massimiliano Calabretta is notorious in Sicily for being both a staunch traditionalist and a bit of a curmudgeon. He makes wines that he likes, the way he likes, generally not worrying about and often disregarding the rules for the appellation. Their vineyards all lie within the Mount Etna area but none of the wines indicate it on the labels, and he's perfectly fine with that. A 'Vino Rosso' is almost by definition the lowest designation for an Italian wine, and in most situations could be anything from anywhere. At Calabretta, it is an affordable look into their mindset. Each batch is a multi-vintage blend of up to five different years, focused mostly if not exclusively on the Nerello Mascalese grape along with other native varietals. The greatness here is in the age of some portions, some a decade or more old, which allows you the chance to taste some of the aged elements that usually can't be found without hiding away a wine yourself. A pale ruby color with a bit of bricking at the edges, the aroma is a lovely mix of new and old, young red cherry with earth and leather, tart cranberry with savory underbrush. On the palate the younger parts give the fruit a bit of fresh weight, while the aged portions give the long fine tannins and lighter elegant finish. A mature and approachable wine that's ready to go without any work or time on your end; if you haven't started a wine cellar, this will make you want to start.
 New blood in established win areas is always a good thing, brings some fresh perspectives and keeps things evolving and moving forward. La Ghibellina was established in the early 2000s by husband and wife Marina and Alberto, and while neither has a family tie to winemaking or viticulture they have deep connections to the region as a whole (Marina coming from a lineage of regional artists, Alberto from nearby Genova representing Italy in water polo at multiple Olympics). Their success in other life pursuits has also translated to success in the vineyards, as their small organic farm has achieved great quality in their whites and reds (even some sparkling wines!). This is quintessential Gavi, and considering the Gavi di Gavi commune is considered the very best of the region, it's also an impressive value. Clean and clear character, full of leesy white fruits, hay and cut flower aromas with tiny pops of dried herbs. The palate is round and dry but not stern, with lots of round green apple and refreshingly tart acidity to the finish that gets brighter and longer after every sip. A great year round white option for lighter fish and poultry dishes, clean and super dependable.
 We have several tastings happening this week to celebrate Virginia Wine Month, including a full lineup of wines for Saturday and a special Mead tasting with Thistle & Stag tomorrow from Fork Union. But what better way to kick off a celebration than with some bubbles from Virginia's finest sparkling wine makers at Thibaut-Janisson. The orange label of their flagship Blanc de Blanc Brut is about as identifiable in this state as the Veuve Cliquot yellow label (and we would say at LEAST as tasty) but people shouldn't also sleep on its easy drinking little brother, the Virginia Fizz. Same great sources of Chardonnay as the Brut, just vinified without the time on the lees and finished a little softer to make a lighter, cleaner, more easy drinking wine. Cool crisp green apple aromas with lots of fizz initially that mellows to a light bubble and dusty white fruits after some moments in the glass. The palate is equally clean and apply, very brisk with the carbonated snappiness on the tongue but not astringent through the finish, very spritely and lime zest throughout. Seriously good, but just not AS serious, great to pop for everyday celebrations.
 Another California wine we felt you needed to taste, inspired by a recent tasting run in Sonoma (yes it was QUITE the trip). Much like Bedrock from a few weeks back, Lioco is one of the great champions of older California vineyards and making wines from these distinctive heritage sites. The winery even features Morgan and Chris at Bedrock as a grower on their web site, so very much kindred spirits. They also have a distinct affinity for the Carignan grape, which is heavily planted throughout Mediterranean France and the coastal regions of other European countries, but only appears sparingly in California. Lioco works with two older parcels in Mendocino planted just this side of World War II, one of which goes into their 'Sativa' red wine (one of the best examples of Carignan you will ever find), the other is exclusively farmed to make this Rose. The distinctly cool location of the site allows the grapes to hang longer and develop more flavor without losing any natural acidity, resulting in a wine full of explosive character. A classic Provencal salmon pink in the glass, loads of tart red fruit and strawberry leaf aromas pop from the get-go, refreshing with just a touch of herbal tones. The palate is impressively full for a rose, absolutely filled to the brim with tangy watermelon mixed with herbs and salinity. Not 'Jolly Rancher' watermelon, but the freshest watermelon salad you've ever had, the one that made you realize for the first time that watermelon could be in a savory dish. That's what's in the glass. This will go pound for pound with ANY Rose in this price point that Provence can throw at it, and will come out on top.
 The Private Property brand is the second label for Caraccioli Cellars, a producer best known in the Santa Lucia Highlands for their fantastic sparkling wine creations. We first encountered them through their sparkling Rose (dollar for dollar one of the best sparklers you will find from anywhere), and felt we had to explore their still wines as well. Fruit for this Chardonnay comes from the same vineyards that supply the Chardonnay for their sparkling wine program and exemplifies the uniqueness of the Santa Lucia Highlands. It's one of California's coolest winegrowing climates as it funnels constant coastal winds from Monterrey Bay yet isn't as fog-bound which allows for steady ripening throughout the season. These sites make some of the state's most exciting Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays with a distinct sense of place, and it is very rare to find one able to show it off anywhere close to this price point. A bit atypical for Cali Chard in that they are very light on the use of oak and malolactic fermentation, so that those flavors do not obstruct the Highlands terroir, and you won't miss them in the slightest. Zesty aromas of lemon curd, white citrus and seashell, a truly coastal aroma. The palate is very similar and gets richer and creamier as it opens up. The bit of bottle age is significant to the complexity as the youthful acidity has softened into the background to allow a more natural buttery-ish texture to come in, yet you can still get the coastal and zesty fruits to come through. A Californian wine that doesn't taste like it could have come from anywhere and everywhere, this is distinct and delicious.
 In honor of a recent tasting we were able to have at Bedrock's Joseph Hooker House tasting room in Sonoma (which will bring us a bounty of new wines in the near future), we wanted to feature one of their most popular wines, and one of the more significant California Roses made. Bedrock and owner/winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson are one of the cornerstones of California's Historic Vineyard Society, dedicated to the preservation, recognition and education of the many family and multi-generational sites in the state. For most wineries, these vineyards would only be used to make the most intensive and highest dollar wines in their portfolio, but Bedrock works in these great sites to even their Rose. Bandol is one of the most famous sources for great Rose thanks to featuring the Mourvedre grape, and Bedrock uses an early 1900s vineyard of Mourvedre as this wine's backbone. The name is an homage to 'Lulu' Tempier, matriarch of the famous Bandol estate of the same name, and this wine aims to make her proud every vintage. Very Provencal style pale pink in the glass, the aromas are immediately unique, full of tart and tangy citrus, pink grapefruit, and layers of savory herbs. The palate is quickly mouthfilling with loads of mineral-driven white stone fruit, orange peel, and again that long lingering herbal tone that stays longer on the palate than anything. This is everything a serious Californian Rose should be about, and all things considered delivers it at a relative bargain.
 The region of Limoux in the Languedoc has a long history of making fine wines, but primarily in the sparkling wine genre. As far back as the 1500s the regional monastic orders were developing a better sparkling wine methodology using Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and the local Mauzac grape (before that Perignon fella refined it in what is now known as the Champagne region). Bubbles still reign supreme here, but the still wines are gaining note for great values that show much higher quality potential than the rest of the high volume Languedoc production. The cooling effects from the Pyrenees mountains into the Aude Valley (which is closer to Andorra than the Mediterranean Coast) gives the grapes a brighter structure, more natural acidity, and reigns in the alcohol to allow the wines a more Burgundian profile if preferred. Slightly smokey dark cherry and raspberry aromas with lots of herbal notes at first, getting redder fruits and more floral as it opens. The palate is very Burgundian with lots of tart red cherry and fine dusty tannins, lighter in weight but does get a little bit of extra fruit heft over time. This won't replace any 1er Cru wines on the shelf, but delivers basic Bourgogne level pleasures at a fraction of the price.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
October 2024
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