 Bordeaux is a huge region that produces a massive volume of wine each vintage, one of the highest producing AOCs in France. To stand out in this crowd simply making good wine may not always be enough. When the owners of this Chateau near the border of Castillon bought the property more than a decade ago, they looked to make large investments into improving the quality and stature of their wine. First off they went to a high-density planting pattern in the vineyards, which forces each vine to compete more with its neighbor for resources and (in theory) improves grape quality. They also converted most of their new vineyards to Malbec, usually a background blending grape in Bordeaux, but now THE headliner in this wine. I'm sure there are more than a few wineries in nearby Cahors saying 'Hey! Malbec is OUR thing!' But you can't argue with the results, as this is a much different think than the rustic traditional 'Black Wines' Cahors is famous for producing. Almost sweet blackberry and camphor aromas at first with some toasty oak tones, getting darker and more peppery as it opens up. The palate is distinctly Bordeaux in its polish and fine tannic mouthfeel, full but not ripe or sweet on the fruit like an Argentine version, finishing with lots of black fruit and berry skin and a hint of anise. A formidable Bordeaux built for robust meals, perhaps just in time for your Easter lamb
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 In most parts of the world, Carignan isn't exactly a prized grape variety. More like 'tolerated' as a necessity, disdained as a viniferous weed though not to the extent of, say, kudzu in the South. It is the most heavily planted grape in France by a country mile, the backbone of the bulk Vin de Table industry as a grape that can produce almost ridiculous volumes of grapes with ease in the dry Mediterranean regions. It takes a lot of work to reign that growth in, more than many are willing to do to get higher quality results, but you do find the occasional success story in areas like Corbieres and the odd old-vine project in places like California (like store favorite Lioco). Surprisingly Chile also has a decent supply of older Carignan vines too, and in recent years more and more producers are taking on the challenge to tame this creature. A word to the wise: read carefully when shopping the Chilean aisle and don't confuse 'Carignan' with their more famous 'Carmenere' grape. Very easy to do, done it more than a few times ourselves. Terranoble is working with ancient vines from coastal dry farmed sites in the cooler Maule Valley, helping to dial back the vine's natural vigor and pulling better weight and flavor from the grapes. A savory mix of dark dried fruits and soft worn leather aromas, very naturally spiced fragrances without any toast coming from the barrels. On the palate the fruit gets more plummy and dark but also catches Carignan's natural acidity by throwing sone tart cherry skin and some zip on the fine polished finish. More elegant than expected, still persistent and sturdy, capable of working everywhere from grilled vegetables to pit fired beef and pork.
 There are a lot of preconceptions lumped under the moniker 'California Red Wine/Red Blend', hopefully we can break some of them with this wine. In most consumer's eyes the term stands for high volume wines that sell more for their branding than their contents, kind of boozy, and invariably have waaayyyy more residual sugar hiding in them than anyone would be willing to admit. Zinfandel is often a part of these blends and has gotten an (undeserved) reputation as the primary culprit. Treated correctly in the vineyards and the winery,many Zin producers have shown they can shave down the alcohol and extraction without losing any of the delicious character or complexity. They can even be made into wines that can be described as balanced and polished, elegant even. Maitre de Chai is a project started by two former restaurant professionals so their wine tastes obviously lean towards the more food-friendly styles, and this surprising blend of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache is their flagship. Deep red but not opaque in the glass, the aromas are a deviation from most Zin based wines showing lots of leather and dried spice at first, getting redder fruits as it opens along with some sweet tobacco. Even with a long decant the nose never gets opulent or intensive, more so fine-tuned and ever-changing with subtlety. The palate shows a little bit more of the Zinfandel ripeness and red berry fruit, but is tempered with some fine tannic structure and a savory background that gives everything a smoother texture into a slightly peppery finish. This is one of the least in-your-face expressions of a Zinfandel based wine you can come across, and may help renew some people's relationship with the grape.
INSIDER'S PICK: 2022 TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA 'BARCO REALE' DI CARMIGNANO (Vinous 91pts)-$22.993/27/2025  The Carmignano region is as historically important and prestigious in Tuscany as Chianti and Montalcino, but because of the small size is probably the least 'famous' to consumers. The area was championed by the Medici family throughout the Renaissance, and was one of four areas in Tuscany identified in a 1716 edict by Grand Duke Cosimo for producing superior quality wines (an early effort into what became their DOC/DOCG system). The connection to the worldly Medici family also brought wines and winemakers from across Europe to this area, which led to introducing Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc into the allowed blends with Sangiovese and other local varieties. They are the original 'Super Tuscan', with much of their post-phylloxera plantings coming from famous growths like Lafite -Rothchild. Post-World War II, Capezzana and the Bonacossi family have been the leaders in re-establishing the greatness of Carmignano, with their top wines consistently looked at as the very best of the region. They also helped to establish the 'Barco Reale' level of wines, an entry level DOC that still shows off the unique regional character but built to be more approachable (think the Rosso di Montalcino to Brunello di Montalcino comparison). Primarily Sangiovese with varying amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Canaiolo, this sees very little oak aging but has savory red fruits and tobacco all over the nose, and the palate has tannic structure for dayyyyys. The bright natural higher toned red fruits of Sangiovese are on full display and comes across distinctly Tuscan, but the Bordeaux influence definitely leaves a mark. This doesn't need the cellar time of its bigger brothers but decanting and some patience definitely helps bring out the wow factor.
 With Spring spring-ing everywhere around us, it's a good time to start seeking out some warmer weather value wines to enjoy during outside socializing with our friends and neighbors. Wines with a bit of fizz can be fun, but there is a LOT of generic efforts out there, as if throwing a little bubble in some boring juice somehow makes it better. Good fizz starts with good juice, plain and simple. This bottling comes to us from the Mary Taylor portfolio of wines, an importer that helps to source and create the wines they bring in so that they can have traditional, well priced wines that properly represent their various regions across Europe. The grapes here are Glera, the backbone of Prosecco, as well as Garganega, and though the fruit all comes from within the Prosecco region it falls outside the standards to use that name. Don't sweat the lack of a name, because what's in the bottle is delicious. A light fizzy froth on the pour quickly calms down and leaves pretty golden apple and fresh pear skin aromas that stay crisper the cooler the wine is. The palate has a bit of tickle to it that gives a lot of refreshing texture to the core of white fruits, and gets slightly off-dry feeling the more the fizz falls away. Keep the cap screwed on between pours to keep it as lively as possible, and this will be a crowd pleaser for many months to come.
 It can be difficult to find a wine with both great flavor AND great purpose, but every once in a while a gem falls into our laps. Planet Oregon is a second label from Soter Vineyards, regarded as one of America's foremost proponents of Organic/Biodynamic winemaking. Their strict following of these principles is obvious in the quality of their single vineyard and estate bottlings, and are sought by collectors everywhere. This brand was created in 2009 because, in their own words, they "wanted (it) to have a purpose greater than what is in the bottle, and a reach beyond the confines of one property or a few wine collectors’ cellars." The fruit is sourced from local sustainable or organic vineyards, and as part of the 1% For The Planet initiative donate $1 for each bottle sold to the Oregon Environmental Council. Beyond their environmental do-gooding, the wine is great, a textbook Oregon Pinot in every positive sense. Dusty Bing cherry and tart raspberry aromas that get warmer as the wine opens up, but don't veer into the sweeter tones, always staying fresh and bright. The palate is equally energetic, juicy with a nice weight for the price point but shows lots of tang behind the fruit, finishing with super fine tannins and a hint of pepperiness. Impressively classy wine for the price that doesn't need any extra time in the bottle to really strut its stuff.
 Italy is a treasure trove of unique grape varieties for the adventurous wine drinker, full of regional specialties that are part of the local culture but rarely if ever get exposed beyond that. We found the rare Bellone grape through this winery several years back through their basic bottling. How unknown is it? The total of the entry for Bellone in the usually comprehensive Jancis Robinson's Guide to Wine Grapes is "very juicy ancient grape grown near Rome." Not much to go on, but it's been an under-the-radar success for many vintages now. Anthium take the grape to the next level (arguably the best version of the grape in the market) featuring a single 60 year old vineyard on the family property. Both the regular Bellone and Anthium are vinified the same way, but the extra vine age definitively elevates the quality of the wine. Bright in the glass with some noticeable viscosity, the aromas are full of deep tropical fruits with pops of citrus zest, warming but still refreshing. The palate is next level rich and unctuous with no signs of sweetness, pulpy and mouth-filling with plenty of mineral laden fruit and notes of skin tannin on the lengthy finish. Excellent match with rich seafood and poultry dishes, the extra texture really helps it stand up to almost any level of intensity.
 Looks like Winter weather has FINALLY decided to skip working hard on a Thursday, so we're able to get an Insider's Pick out for you. White Rhone wines are getting fewer and farther between these days. The red grapes are easier to grow and a bit more profitable, so many new or replanted vineyards are converting mostly if not wholly away from the white varieties. The nice silver lining is that when you do find a standout, they tend to be really well done and usually have some nicely mature vines that stay consistent from vintage to vintage. Clos du Caillou is an historic estate with most of their Cotes du Rhone vineyards pressed right against the borders of Chateauneuf, and also are connected to the diversity of the region, making a broad spectrum of both red and white wines. The vines here are of very similar age to the ones making their white Chateauneuf, as well as a similar blend, with this being tank aged instead of barrique aged. The blend of White Grenache, Viognier and Clairette (some vintages will see a splash of Roussanne from their Chateauneuf vineyards) is classic, fresh and floral with a bit of unctuous texture. Initial flowery hits from the Viognier turn towards zesty green citrus and apple notes, with lots of natural weight on the palate at first, then picking up the citrusy minerality to give a juicy mouthwatering finish that lingers impressively. A wine begging for foods to help elevate, like Spring salads or delicate fish dishes.
 With such cold dreary forecasts ahead of us the next few days, it probably serves us well to have something open that brings a little warmth and comfort to the customers. So much of Chile's wine history has been with Bordeaux influence, especially around the city of Santiago and the Maipe Valley. More recent developments are going further and further afield and exploring different styles and climates, as well as rediscovering some older ones. Itata is on the Southern coast of Chile near the city of Conception, and brings about a sort of Sonoma-esque coastal vibe. Cooling ocean winds and fog, tall pines in the craggy hills, all makes for some temperate growing conditions. Though it was first established in the 1500s by Spanish conquistadores, it has been largely overlooked with all the money and attention focused around Santiago. The last few decades have brought a new wave of winemakers to the region, looking to take advantage of the older forgotten vineyards and establish a less invasive style of farming/winemaking in these remote nooks and crannies. This Syrah is a perfect example, taking up a very cool character Northern Rhone style for an excellent price. Savory, smoky aromas at first with some black cherry skin and peppery meats that get a little warmer with some time in the glass. The palate has lots of energy and bright acidity behind the smoky flavors and lightly dusty tannins, decently weighty but not thick or chewy, with a lingering peppery finish. This is begging for a savory stew or lentil soup, something meat-like if not actually meaty.
 The Virginia wine industry is still in its infancy, relatively speaking, as there is still a lot to be learned about what grape varieties will perform the best. It can take a decade or two to figure out what experiments work the best, and even longer for others to mimic that success and replicate it (imitation being the greatest form of flattery and all that). Viognier became one of the first grapes to follow that form after early success with it from wineries like Horton in the 90s. We say all this as a lead in to today's wine because this is a wine that deserves to be copied by others in our area. Roussanne is revered in both the Northern and Southern Rhone for its distinctive aromas, which is absolutely nailed here with the signature 'herbal tea' and combination of both orange and white citrus. The palate is also spot-on with an oily viscosity perked by both acidity and some skin texture, finishing with a lot of citrus zest and fine tannins. Aging the wine in multi-use barrels and terracotta amphora help this earn a lot of delicious mouthfeel without any unnecessary barrel flavor or tannin being added. This will do exceptionally well with your richer and more aromatically complex seafood dishes, or just be damn sexy and exciting on its own.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
February 2025
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