It isn't often that we as wine drinkers get the opportunity to taste the wine that is the not just the standard bearer for a region but the literal starting point and touchstone for the grape variety as a whole (a least not without having to spend a ton of $$$). For most of its history Rueda and Verdejo were most noted in Spain as producers of a Sherry substitute during the Moorish empire occupation of the Jerez region. After the phylloxera epidemic in the late 1800s, there was an effort to make more 'everyday' white wines from Verdejo, but the grape has issues making wines that survive and transport very well, at least at that time, so they largely fell into obscurity until the 1970s. Angel Rodriguez' family had a small plot of Verdejo on their Martinsancho vineyard that had survived phylloxera, and used those cuttings to replant the entirety of their 25 acres starting in 1972. The family was one of the primary names to help establish the Rueda appellation in 1980, and the cuttings from their property have been used to replant most of the region. Thankfully technology has also progressed with the Verdejo grape, allowing it to overcome its shortcomings to produce much more stable and even age-worthy wines like this. Fans of Semillon from Australia and Semillon-heavy White Bordeaux will LOVE this, as it has a lot of the dry and waxy texture that those wines historically feature. Bright and zesty aromas of green apple and citrus that grow more peachy and white fruited as it opens up, strong but not perfume-y. The palate is really where it's at, long and lush with lots of lemon/lime fruit and that lingering skin finish that sets this apart from the more typical everyday versions of Verdejo. A killer wine for Spring salads and fresh seafood dishes, and can handle some cream or fat as well.
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There is likely no wine region in the world whose reputation was 'done dirty' in the 1970s worse than Lambrusco. Sure, the name was popular; you say '**** On Ice!', and many people will still be able to respond 'So Nice!' But that was the sweetest version of Lambrusco and by far the least distinctive (or even most popular style in its Emilia-Romagna home). It is like having your only exposure to red meat be from a fast food chain's burger. The wines are actually dynamic, usually quite dry, and very deserving of more attention. Sorbara is the name of both a grape used to make Lambrusco as well as a subregion, both of which are considered elite sources of quality. This version is also made using the older 'Frizzante', so not as much pressure and carbonation as the Prosecco-style Charmat method. While it looks to lose its carbonation quickly in the glass, it will maintain a bit of prickliness on the palate for a while. Very pale salmon in color, the aromas are of impressively fresh strawberry fruit and strawberry leaf, as well as a background of tart citrus. The palate is juicy, savory and racy all at the same time with refreshing salty tingle to the finish, which is EXACTLY what you want this type of wine to be when you pair it with salami, roasted vegetables, and sauces or dishes finished with Parmigiano Reggiano. A new vintage marks the return of one of our favorite finds from last year, as well as example #132 from us that not ALL Californian Chardonnays are the same or should be thought of as such. The wines from Ian Brand and his Paysan label are everything we love about Californian wine and winemaking; full on 'farmer wines' that are sourced from unique and often under-rated parts of the state, always showing off the distinct character of the pockets of Monterey and the Central Coast he pulls from. The cool climate and coastal influences on vineyards in this area tend to provide grapes with more natural acidity. All too often the winemaking choice with this fruit would be to beat that acidity out with lots of malolactic fermentation and oak barrel aging, but invariably that would make them just taste like fruit from everywhere else. Paysan choses to embrace that local character with mostly neutral barrels and a sensitive hand to the use of malo, just enough to buff off some of the rougher edges. Rich lemon curd and fresh melon aromas with a little flinty tone, definitely smelling more of the vineyards near Salinas than whoever the barrel makers may have been. The palate is rounder than you would expect, more leesy and warm Californian fruit at first but settling into a fresher citrus and mineral filled palate that finishes clean, juicy and more than a bit mouth-watering. A perfect wine to crush on all Spring and Summer long. The Mencia grape is one of the great success stories from the modern era of Spanish wine over the last 40+ years. Found exclusively in the furthest Northwestern corner of the country, it bridges into Old Castile in the region of Bierzo and up into the mountains of Galicia, with very different wines made from the mountains to the foothills and lowlands. The wines here were largely overlooked as being too inconsistent, light and simple at times when consumers were looking for bigger and bolder tastes from Spain, but improved winemaking and broader consumer tastes have really brought out the best of this region. Mencia draws a lot of comparison to Cabernet Franc (so much so that a Cab Franc clone existed in some vineyards as Mencia for well over 100 years before it was discovered and ferreted out), and versions like this from the higher river banks of Valdeorras tend to show a lot in common with Cab Franc from the Loire. Cool floral notes of red fruits and subtle herb aromas get bolder and more red-fruited as it opens up, with a nice earthy character gained from some of the grapes being fermented with full clusters, a technique often used to make the more earthy and structured styles of Syrah and Pinot Noir around the world. Bright flavors on the palate that mix both savory red fruits and pops of citrus, and a little bit of unique 'local character' that shows up thanks to a small portion of rare native grapes co-fermented in to provide a field blend identity. Fans of lower abv red wines should definitely get Mencias like this on your radar, a killer pairing with well-herbed meat dishes like a marinated pork loin. As Americans on the East Coast, we probably have the least amount of familiarity with the Margaret River and Western Australian wine regions than any other. Getting from Perth to here is just about literally the longest trip a wine could make to get here, so for effort and cost of transport we see very few examples beyond 1-2 of the blue chip producers that are already expensive anyway. From that lens alone this becomes a TREMENDOUS value, and what's in the bottle is worth every minute of the trip to get here. The region is very coastal, heavily influenced by the Indian Ocean, with conditions more akin to some of the cooler Californian regions. Cabernet Sauvignon here is much less oozy and heavy, instead showing more restrained and structured characteristics, even Bordeaux-ish in some ways. Dark currants and leathery red fruits on the nose that get deeper and more peppery as it opens up, this is definitely a style of Cabernet that isn't in a rush to show everything off at once. The palate has surprisingly nice acidity that adds of tart red fruits into the mix, and the tannins are equally fine and persistent to give this a refreshingly long finish. At only 13.5%abv some may think it's going to be restrained or lean, but this is a very complete wine and packed with character and complexity, something that should be on every Cab fan's reference list. Most people's knowledge of Gattinara comes from the production of a couple producers that dominate probably 75% of the exported wines. Like most of the other appellations in the Alto Piedmonte at the foot of the Alps, Gattinara is largely rural and lost much of their production and reputation after World War II. Most of the vineyards were family farms, not wineries, and cooperatives like this one were vital for production otherwise the vineyards would have been completely forgotten. This co-op has been serving Gattinara since 1908 drawn from 40 family plots, primarily for the production of this flagship wine. This true field blend (the exact % of each varietal is not known as all the varieties are harvested by the families and co-fermented) is primarily Nebbiolo with a generous portion of Barbera along with some Vespolina and Uva Rara. Fresh and savory with dried cherry and cool restrained herbal aromas, this is fiendishly drinkable from one sip to the next, with lots of juicy energy and no hard edges that are usually seen with the more Alpine versions of Nebbiolo. Dry but not dry-ING, the Barbera and other varieties really contribute to the immediate drinkability here. The unbottled tanks at the winery are famously sold to locals bringing jugs and demijohns for their 'weekly drinker' refills. This will likely make it into many of your rotations as well. A little bit of 'North Meets South' in this wine, as one of the most acclaimed producers in the Northern Rhone takes on Grenache from the Southern Rhone. The Ogier family has been one of the larger presences in the Cote-Rotie for many generations as both growers and later winemakers, creating one of the most extensive selections of vineyards in the entire appellation. Great for reputation of excellence, but tough on finding values from the steep terraces slopes. The family recently found some suitable vineyards for them to work with in the Plan de Dieu region in between Chateauneuf and Gigondas in the Southern Rhone, and while the wine is primarily Grenache over Syrah, the Northern Rhone influence of the Ogiers is definitely apparent. Dark berry and black cherry skin aromas with a touch of herb and wild game in the background. The palate is also more Northern Rhone leaning, with a finely polished dark tannin and an energetic feel versus opulent juiciness, hitting the savory touches more than the up-front fruit. A great tweak on the expectations of Grenache based CDR, perfect for cold weather stews and braised or basted meat dishes, slow cooked and hearty stuff. One of the most important grape varieties in the history of New World winemaking, yet it's likely most people haven't knowingly tasted it. It goes by many names in North and South America (Pais, Mission, Criolla Chica) and was by all accounts the first vitis vinifera in the New World, brought over by Spanish missionaries in the 16th century to make their communion wines. The vines are high yielding and legendarily durable (the source of some of the oldest and genuinely gnarliest looking vines on the planet), but the juice is lighter weight and often very nondescript when compared to some of the more famous varieties. Lighter and lower alcohol wines are returning to fashion, and with thousands of acres in both American hemispheres there are lots of opportunities for great examples to be made. This is from a Chilean vineyard with vines just a 'mere' 90+ years old, formed as a collaboration between Chilean and Beaujolais producers. Makes sense, as a Cru Beaujolais would be most taster's first thought here. Dusty herbs and lightly floral red fruit on the nose with a touch of citrus and pomegranate, this is one of the prettier fragrances you will come across in a wine. The palate is light, but has more body and sneaky texture than expected, with lots of tart red fruits and citrus, finishing long with very fine tannins. Most Pais/Mission wines just aspire to be chillable and glug-able, but this brings some seriousness to the table. Hope everyone in Central Virginia are safe and sound after last week's Snow-mageddon. To coax you out of your ice-covered driveways and past the concrete-hard snow drifts at every corner, we wanted to give you something unique and compelling to sample. This is definitely that wine, something most people wouldn't think of unless and until they had a chance to sample it, and afterwards it becomes part of their weekly rotation. Friuli is the Easternmost portion of the Veneto, right up against the Slovenian border. White wines are still best known here, but there is a surprisingly strong reputation for the red wines here as well. One of the larger and flatter portions of the region is called Grave, referring to the gravelly soils, and it has a similar success with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon as the more famous Graves region in Bordeaux (also named for its gravelly soils). Refosco is the wild card in this mix, a very local grape that has more fame from some recioto-style sweeter wines but has the stuff to make some chewy tannic dry wines in their youth. The extra bottle age here is essential and well appreciated, making for a surprising and well evolved value. A nice dark color with hints of brick colors at the edges, the nose is exactly what you want to get in a wine with some age. Underbrush and red fruit skins, old leather, nothing jammy. The palate has loads of life to it, with the dusty tannins still pulling through on the finish to leave a long mature finish. Depending on your tastes you may prefer the juicy side of youth, but there is no better picture than this of the improvements a bit of time will do for a wine that needs it. INSIDER'S PICK: 2022 BODEGAS ALTOS DE MONTANCHEZ TEMPRANILLO 'VEGAS ALTAS' EXTREMADURA $15.991/22/2026 As we are all preparing for the incoming Snowpocalypse (Snowmageddon? Snowzilla? Snow-Rodan?), seems wise to pour a wine that has some oomph to keep folks warm. The Extremadura region in Southwestern Spain is just such a place for those wines, warm and fertile with lots of regional crop specialties (as well as Pata Negra Serrano ham), and wines meant to be straightforward and approachable. I.E. cheap and cheerful. This Bodega is a very unique outlier in the region as the first (perhaps only?) certified organic producer for all the wines under their roof, with multiple parcels they work with moving to Biodynamics. Their style leans towards the natural or minimal intervention world, which brings freshness and style to reds that can often be lacking in character or subtlety. Fresh blackberry and current aromas on the nose, especially with a little time open, but also a nice pop of citrus, chocolate orange style that really plays nicely with the emerging peppery and savory notes. That citrus also comes out on the palate, providing freshness and acidity that is so often lost in wines from this region, giving the juicy dark fruits some lift and finishing surprisingly clean. A great pairing with lots of slow cooked 'comfort foods' you may be fixing with nowhere to go for 2-3 days at a time. |
The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
March 2026
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