 This is one of the last Summertime choices for an Insider's Pick, perhaps giving you a chance to reflect on some exotic traveling you may have enjoyed. Many European travelers will at some point visit the Greek island of Santorini, where the Assyrtiko grape makes their signature wine. While there, however, you will pay 'tourist trap' prices, and that can carry over to the wines that get exported. This bottling comes from the mainland region of Lakonia on the southern peninsula, but the coastal vineyards for this excellent organic producer ensure that there is nothing lost here, other than some of the cost to you (which we're SURE you won't miss!). An immediate aromatic pop of fresh white flowers and peachy warm fruits, hinting a bit at Viognier or even Albarino if you're a Spanish wine fan, but with a cooling minerality and zesty citrus tones that takes away any tropical or sweeter sense. The palate has lots of tangy lime and weighty pear tones loaded with minerality and a touch of salinity to the finish. Though many will think of this as a warm weather wine, it has loads of food possibilities and enough in it to be well capable of being an option far into the cooler seasons. And it's so fairly priced you don't have to save it for a special occasion!
0 Comments
 Some of you may be say to yourselves 'What, two French Sauvignon Blancs in the Insider's Pick in back-to-back weeks? How repetitive!' Ah, but these are two VERY different expressions of the grape, about as diverse in style as you will find within the French borders. While the Boyer-De Bar last week was a unique and novel rendition, this is classic, quintessential Sauvignon Blanc, the kind that made the wines famous and desired throughout the world. The nose is all mineral-laden fruit and gunflint, everything you may have heard Pouilly-Fume described as (minus the cat-pee references). There is a little more quince and juicier white fruits as it opens up, but the nose never loses that cool flintiness. The palate is loaded with mouthwatering melon and pink grapefruit notes and a long tingly tart finish that shows off the refreshing side of this area. This is the type of wine that absolutely begs for a pairing with some of the Loire's local chevre, grilled vegetables or some shrimp.
 Despite what you may think, higher end wineries and winemakers usually don't want to make JUST expensive monumental wines all the time. In fact a lot of them do find a lot of satisfaction and accomplishment in taking their talents towards making good quality wines that can be more approachable to everyone. The Boyer name is well known to Burgundy fans from the Boyer-Martenot house in Meursault, now in its 4th generation under son Vincent. If you aren't a Burgundy fan, you probably aren't going to casually come across their work as even their 'basic' Bourgogne starts in the $50 range and goes up from there. Emmanuel De Bar is a long time friend of Vincent's from their time in winemaking school, with family owning vineyards in the Herault region of Languedoc. In 2018 they decided to combine forces and use Emmanuel's immaculate organically farmed vineyards from a less famous region, bring the fruit to Burgundy, and let Vincent apply the same care and methodology as he does to the Meursault wines in the same cellars. The results are impressive with a lineup of wines (including Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) that really over-deliver, and this Sauvignon Blanc is the stunner value of the group. Bright white fruit on the nose with a rich, almost creamy lemon note aided by the extra time on lees, this is definitely a deviation from the Loire style of Sauvignon Blanc, but doesn't lean into a tropical New Zealand style either. The palate is very rounded, probably the most Burgundian trait that's been layered in to this wine, with just as much acidity as their is skin tannin texture to bring out the drier fruits on the finish. With the exception of maybe drinkers that are full-on acidity freaks, we can't think of anyone that wouldn't be delighted by this wine for the price!
 When most consumers hear that a wine is 'a second label' of another winery, they usually envision a much lesser wine and/or throwaway product nobody else wanted. That logic needs to be thrown away when you are working with great wineries with high standards. In cases like this, their second labels can exceed the best efforts of many other wineries. Jonata and The Hilt are partner wineries run by the same wine team in Santa Barbara; Jonata based in Ballard Canyon with a focus on primarily Bordeaux varietal red wine, and The Hilt in the Santa Rita Hills Valley which focuses on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Both wineries produce iconic, signature wines that exemplify the distinctive characteristics of their microclimates. Neither label has an 'everyday' wine lineup, but both work with enough vineyards tin recent years to have a decent amount of juice from their younger vineyards or not making the final blends that don't quite reach those lofty standards. Instead of selling that juice off to someone else in bulk, they chose to keep it for themselves and start making their own second label. Though it says Santa Barbara on the label, the vast majority of the fruit comes from their cool coastal Santa Rita Hills Valley vineyards, which brings a racy character to all elements of the wine. Bright cherry and dried raspberry fruit to the nose with a touch tart cranberry, hinting at sweet fruit but countered with almost salty sea spray. The palate is deliciously energetic with a little darker fruit and fine dusty tannins to lend the berry tones some hints of pepperiness. This is a Pinot Noir with a 'signature' character from one of the cooler growing areas in California, and you don't have to pay up to enjoy it!
 With things returning to the normal routine (schools back in session, construction done on the Hydraulic Road roundabout) we wanted to feature a really tasty 'everyday' white wine. We also wanted to bring attention to a label change/rebranding of a long time store favorite. Under the label of Alain de la Treille this has been a source of great value for many vintages out of the Loire. Same source, same juice, and most importantly same quality for the price, just new appearance on the outside. Classic Chenin Blanc aroma of juicy pear and baked apple with a hint of honeycomb that always seems to signal the uniqueness of Vouvray. Nothing intensive, but in balance and completely pleasant. The palate is equally juicy, loaded with pear fruit in a creamy, off-dry sort of fruitiness, but with plenty of tingly acidity that brings a pear skin type dry note to the finish that feels more persistent with each sip. Completely enjoyable pop-and-pour wine for any occasion and any season.
 Hoping to inject a little bit of sunshine into what will likely be a dreary and rainy couple of days in Central Virginia with this Insider's Pick. At least the roundabout is done on Hydraulic Road now so it will be MUCH easier to get to us this week. Greco is one of the noble grapes of Campania as well as much of the southern third of the Italian boot. The grape reaches its undisputed heights of quality in the mountains above Naples with Greco di Tufo, influenced by the cooling climate and volcanic soils. Greco has a natural richness and a somewhat floral note that can come across almost Viognier-like in warmer areas, but the wines of Greco di Tufo carry a pronounced zing and vibrancy that really set them apart. This is a great value introduction to the region, as are all the wines in the Colline del Sole lineup, showing off a nose of peach and white flowers that gets prettier the longer the wine is open, as well as the lime and citrus notes in the background. The mouthfeel is juicy and full for the price point but also drier and more mineral driven than the aromas would let on, bringing a long nervy finish with lots of lime zest and pithy fruit skin. A fun and quenching wine on its own and a great match with all sorts of medium to full bodied Mediterranean seafood or white meat dishes.
 To borrow from the infamous pork promotional commercials in the 1990s, the Aligote grape is 'the other white grape' in Burgundy. It plays a distant secondary role to Chardonnay, which gets planted in all the best vineyards and deservedly earns top dollar for the high quality wines it produces. But Aligote still has an important place at the table, especially for fans of value and lower abv wines. The grape is probably best known as the blending partner with regionally made blackcurrant liqueur to make a kir, but attentive wineries can make very nice, approachable and racy stand-alone wines like this that are very enjoyable. Bright and lemony on the nose with some cool green apple and saline notes, this is all about refreshment and easy enjoyment. On the palate you get the roundness of Burgundy in the texture aided by a small portion of the blend aged in neutral oak, but is all about the bright nervy citrus and apple skin tones throughout to the finish. The cooler the temperature, the more the wine leans into the minerality on the finish, while it gets more juicy green apple as it gets to room temps. Either way this is a great match with lighter seafood and Summer salads, or even a quenching sipper on its own.
 Grape clones are a vital part of what makes a wine taste the way it does, even when compared to other wines of the same grape. Clones get created by identifying traits and propagating it by grafting and creating new vines. Over time these clones get known for these traits, such as having better disease resistance, higher yields, or certain flavor profiles. There's never such a thing as the 'perfect' clone that has it all, so you can find all sorts of subtle style and flavor variety even within a grape like Sauvignon Blanc due just to the clones being used. We bring this up because this delightful wine from our friends at Dogwood & Thistle (the 'Dogwood' comes from Erin Robinson's growing up here in Virginia) is made from a unique Sauvignon Blanc clone that is only used in 2% of California vineyards, and is a major factor in the wine's intensity and distinct quality. And Sandy's winemaking talents as well, of course. The nose is immediately different, loaded with more lychee and white fruits in front of the grassier tones, cool and zesty without as much grapefruit impact. The palate has lots of full juicy texture that shows off the cool Mendocino acidity on the zingy mouthfeel and long nervy finish. Delicious and food friendly, far different from the other 98% of California Sauvignon Blancs out there.
INSIDER'S PICK: 2022 KELLEY FOX WINES 'NERTHUS' WILLAMETTE VALLEY $26.99 (Vinous 93points)7/18/2024  For the last 10+ years the team at Kelley Fox Wines has been growing a reputation as one of the dynamic, thoughtful and exciting newer producers in Oregon, cut from the same cloth as favorites like Patricia Green Cellars of a generation before. The talent of the winemaking has opened the doors to access some of the great vineyards of the region to make not only their acclaimed Pinot Noirs but for their more experimental wines like this. Living somewhere in between an 'orange wine' and a Rose, this is unique not only for the combination of grapes but the remarkable sources for some of the varieties. The blend of Early Muscat, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Riesling is whole cluster pressed and the slight tint of color comes from the Pinot Gris getting extra skin contact. All the fruit comes from sites well known for their Pinot Noir production, some older than 30 years and two particular ones from blocks in the 1980s planted franc de pied (on their own rootstock, unusual since the phylloxera blight in the late 1800s). The aromas are perfumed and intensely exotic, loaded with wildflowers, peach stone, orange zest, Asian tea and several other fragrances of your own imagination. Just a lot going on here, and it changes with each swirl of the glass. The palate is juicy and quenching yet completely dry and showing off the texture from all the skin contact, getting more of the pithy side of the fruit than the pulp and a dusty mineral note to the finish that lingers as long as the aromas do.
 We always like reminding people during 'Rose Season' in the Summer that great dry Rose comes from all sorts of grape varieties and all parts of the world, not just Provence. More importantly, wineries that make all manner of great wines will also make great Rose, so they don't have to be a specialist to really knock your socks off. Vajra has been our most represented producer from the Piedmont for many years, from their most basic Langhe Rosso to their finest single site Barolos. It should come as no surprise then that their Rose built from the three primary grapes of the region (Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto) is also one of the best Italian versions we get year to year. The winery harvests the grapes used for making this Rose early to give it acidity and distinctive freshness that mirrors the Provencal style in same ways, but still shows the unique character of the Piedmont varieties. Pale salmon color and loads of rose petals and light red fruits on the nose as well as some citrusy or green apple type tartness. The palate has great weight, you get the juicy feel of Barbera, but the acidity and Nebbiolo's fine texture gives the dried berry fruit some zip and lightly dusty note to the finish. This does everything a Provence Rose can do without tasting like an exact copy, you can tell there's Piedmont character in the glass.
|
The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
October 2024
Categories |
RSS Feed