 Carignan is one of the more ubiquitous grape varieties, especially in the more bulk-producing regions along the Mediterranean. High volume and low effort in the warmer, drier climates means it's a favorite for growers looking to sell by the ton. There is also a fine line between 'cheap' and 'good value', so often with even just a little bit of help Carignan can make some very tasty daily drinkers. The grape can naturally be more acidic and a bit rough on the tannins, so on the cheap end it can reeeeeealy need some juicy Grenache blended in to make it survivable. Otherwise it can be like sipping a glass of 40-grit sandpaper. This one doesn't miss any additions in the slightest, showing off all sorts of rosy red fruits and wild sage aromas, getting a bit of a darker cherry and wild game as it opens up. The palate is lighter but not lean (maybe even chillable?), surprisingly fine tannic texture with a nice mix of briary fruits and touches of gaminess. A great Labor Day porch pounder to pair with most anything off the grill, very friendly in both flavor and price point.
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 It may seem a little late in the 'Rose season' to be getting excited over something new. This is an 'All The Time' rose, however, one that is just too good to limit to just a few months of the year. Much of the Abruzzo region's past has been dominated largely by bulk wine production and large co-operatives, with little to get excited about with regards to quality. Recent history has seen exceptional improvement, with each generation seeming to elevate the reputation further and further. Initially the region only had DOC designations for white and red wines, but the quality of the local rose wine-Cerasuolo-has improved to such a degree that it was elevated to its own DOC in 2010. Smaller family estates like the one run by Chiara Ciavolich are making wines that challenge well established regions like Tavel for juicy, fleshy dry Rose that are every bit as exciting as those from Provence or anywhere else in Europe. Built from the Montepulciano grape, the first pour immediately calls the name of the wine to mind (literally 'cherry red'), looking like a cran-cherry cocktail at first. Aromas are quickly much deeper and interesting than a cocktail, full of cherry skin, mint stems, and more savory berry notes, generally a bit wilder than usually found in a Rose. The palate is more substantial than expected, lots juicy cherry at first but quickly getting fine tannins and light bitterness that is nicely persistent and fresh. This is also keeping a nice spine of acidity throughout the profile, which is often found lacking by those that tend to dismiss the more ruddy-colored roses of the world. Take this all the way to the Thanksgiving table and beyond this year.
 This is in opposition to my diatribe last week about the flaws and faults of trying to grow a grape in an environment that doesn't fit regardless of how popular the wine is. The inverse is also true, in that the best option for growing in some areas may not be a grape most people have heard of, but making quality wines will help make it popular. Blaufrankisch- or Limberger if you prefer (said nobody, ever)-has a long history and great success over the years in Austria, Germany, and many other alpine winemaking regions in Europe. The popularity has been more local than international, something you enjoyed there but didn't find demand in other parts of the world. The grape itself is durable, can handle a diversity of environments, and still make quality wines in a broad spectrum of styles. German influences in the Finger Lakes has made Blaufrankisch an important staple in the region almost since its inception,and is increasingly prevalent in Virginia and along the East Coast as more people get it into their mouths and get over the mushmouth-y grape name. Deep purple in color and a rich plummy fruit on the nose, the character is cool and savory, almost a bit of Syrah-like black pepper note there as well as some dark cherry skin. Darkly juicy on the palate with some dustiness in the tannins, no hard edges or under-ripe notes anywhere, which can be a danger with red wines in cooler climates. Not a wine for slamming at cocktail parties, there are other grapes for that. This is great for savory duck and pork dishes, consistent and delicious, and something to get into your rotation.
 There are more than a few 'inconvenient truths' about Virginia wines and winemaking that we all have to acknowledge and deal with. One of the most prevalent ones is 'just because you like a grape or is popular, doesn't mean it will do well here and should be planted everywhere'. Our weather here is so varied and unpredictable (as I watch another gully-washer roll past the store...) not every grape variety is built to deal with it and still make good wine season after season. Sauvignon Blanc has definitely been one of those varieties, but when there is success that breaks through, it is good to reward that bravery and commitment. Veritas really capture sunshine in the glass here, full of bright apple and pear skin aromas right from the first pour, more Loire-like and energetic. Plenty of weight to the palate for a Virginia white, lots of zingy green apple and melon with juicy energy and a long lingering tartness to the finish. A great wine to cut through the humidity of Central Virginia, or matched with most any shellfish dish you can imagine.
 Back in with the Insider's Picks after a brief mid-Summer hiatus, with lots of fun new arrivals to show off in the coming weeks. Owen Roe is an iconic Pacific Northwest winery based in the Yakima Valley, unique in that they have achieved excellence and popularity with both Washington AND Oregon wines. Very rare to find a producer that doesn't focus on JUST the Willamette Valley or JUST Columbia River/Walla Walla/Yakima Valley to make their mark, with such a diverse range or varieties, climates, and styles to traverse. But Owen Roe is almost a unicorn in that respect, hitting winners from both red and white wines all across the spectrum. Now with their value oriented Corvidae Wine Co. (named after the crows, ravens and magpies that roam the area), they are hitting some outstanding price points for the quality in the bottle. Mostly Yakima fruit, this shows a darker, savory, almost Northern Rhone type profile that almost never gets approached at this price point, with lots of cocoa-dusted blackberry and black cherry aromas from the get-go. The palate is very bright and finely tannic, still with lots of dark fruit flavors but finishing with some tart cherry skin flavored energy. Quality, diversity, AND value; Owen Roe can do it all.
 Both projects are from winemakers that aspire to create outstanding wines without the need for high extraction or heavy manipulation, and have legions of fans that sing their praises. Tan Fruit is the Chardonnay side hustle of Jim Maresh Jr., winemaker and owner of Arterberry Maresh, one of the most important and esteemed (mostly) Pinot Noir producers in Oregon. Enfield is newer to the game, started by winemaker John Lockwood in 2010 on the side of his regular winemaking gigs before committing 100% t it in 2013, but they specialize in small lots of distinctive wines from old, unique and sometimes even forgotten vineyards across California. Both wineries work with the mantra of making soil driven, acid driven wines with lots of brightness to the flavors; when meeting Jim for a recent tasting at our store, he was very fond of saying he likes to harvest the grapes when they are 'al dente'. The Petite Tan Fruit mirrors a Petit Chablis (no surprise) with a fresh flinty aroma of stone fruits and crisp peach, light and refreshingly tangy on the palate with loads of minerally citrus and a hint of nutty almond skin to the finish. The Grenache starts with peppery red fruits and tart raspberry aromas at first, turning riper as it opens up with lots of snappy lip-smacking fruit o the palate, finishing almost citrusy. A great pair to enjoy over this All-American weekend, or you can do just one or the other. Have a safe and wonderful holiday!
 Beaujolais and Burgundy may seem worlds apart to most people, but in fact they are quite connected, both geographically and historically. The city of Macon and the Maconnaise region itself sit at the southernmost end of Burgundy, and just meters away at either the crest of one hillside or the foot of another (some of the dividing lines seem to overlap a bit) Beaujolais begins, and as you travel South towards Lyon the geology transforms dramatically. Many map producers are as likely to add Beaujolais when showing Burgundy as they are Chablis which is about 100km from Dijon as the next nearest point in the appellation. Burgundy of course has made its bones on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and Beaujolais is wholly committed to the Gamay grape, but in these overlaps there are areas where some grapes wash back and forth. Gamay makes some appearances still in Burgundy and can be blended with Pinot Noir to make a 'Passetoutgrain', and Chardonnay drifts down in pockets to make the occasional Beaujolais Blanc. Often they can be no more than the token white wine a house may offer before they taste you on their multiple Cru Beauj, but in the hands of an outstanding producer like Terres Dorees you have a very nice and well priced White Burgundy-in quality, if not actually by name. Bright lemon and minerally white fruits on the nose with lots of clarity and freshness from being aged in concrete vats versus any sort of oak. You catch a little bit of malolactic fermentation on the palate, but just enough to round out the edges of the vibrant fruit and minerality, as well as a slight hint of creaminess from the lees aging at the finish. A great warm weather white that does fantastic with a chill without losing any character or complexity, perfect with lighter fish or fresh salads.
 A delicious double shot of wines from varieties many may not think can make (much less should make) high quality wines. The Alto Adige region of Italy is vastly underrated for the standout quality of their wines, and we do our very best trying to tell as many folks as possible. HIgh in the Dolomite Mountains and at the foot of the Austrian Alps, the region has more parallels to Germanic or Austrian wines than the rest of Veneto. Even the names of people and places here seem to share more of a Germanic root than Italian. The wines here, especially the white wines, are imbued with cool mountain clarity and bright acidity you just won't find in the warmer flatlands. The best producers, of which the Cantina Terlano co-operative is definitely one, can also pull out great intensity that elevates everything they work with. Neither Muller Thurgau or Pinot Grigio are expected to make world class wines, but these definitely fit that moniker. On the Muller Thurgau, usually a very quiet and minimalist variety, there's lots of cool lime and flint on the nose that builds to pear and white peach over time, and a very nervy round palate with lots of mouth-watering acidity and cool zesty citrus. The Pinot Grigio is a skosh warmer and juicier on the nose, and not quite as much penetrating minerality on the palate, but there is no doubt about the common Alpine heritage of these two wines. Refreshing and incredibly food friendly, splendid with a healthy chill on them which will serve well for the hot days and weeks to come.
 The Greco grape has a foothold throughout most of southern Italy, from Naples down being one of the primary varieties used in their white wines. The grape is probably most famous when coming from the high volcanic mountain vineyards above Naples where Greco di Tufo is made, but it makes durable and reliably tasty wines pretty much everywhere it grows. Calabria is more known to Americans for the historical connections to the Italian mafia than for wine (we've been told, we've heard they're there, we know nothing, snitches get stiches), but quality exists in pockets especially along the coastline and mountains along the Ionian Sea. Coastal breezes and mountain temperature changes help bring much needed cooling freshness to the otherwise warm environment, giving whites like this a distinctive pop. Warm peach and Meyer lemon aromas that catch a bit of flowery prettiness as it gets warmer, but are otherwise fairly zesty at ice-bucket temperatures. The palate is juicy and also loaded with the same fruit on the nose, but finishes with an impressive zing of almost salty citrus skin that really makes the wine distinctive. Fun for chilled down sipping, and can handle a lot of lighter to midweight seafood or vegetable dishes, so it's perfect for backyard activities this Summer.
 In many parts of the Rhone, Languedoc, and Southern France regions the native white grape varieties have been on the decline in terms of plantings and production. Often growers are converting more of their vineyards to red wine varieties that can be cheaper/easier to grow, or succumbing to the idea that Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc are an 'easier sell'. Thankfully there are other places in the world where these varieties (Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, and others) are improving in favor. Just from a quick look around the store we can see examples from Argentina, Italy, and Virginia that are not JUST Viognier but useful and delicious blends in the spirit of the best French bottlings. Both California and Washington have extensive planting of white Rhone varieties that continue to increase and improve, and Tablas Creek is one of the most important producers in this movement. The Paso Robles winery was founded in 1989 as a project between the esteemed Rhone producer Chateau du Beaucastel and their American importer Vineyard Brands. The vineyards were planted with clones from the Beaucastel property, requiring a three year quarantine before they could even begin planting, but necessary to ensure the ability to parallel the French estate. They also established a nursery for these vine clones, and have provided these clones to some of the best vineyards planted in the last 25 years. The Patelin series is made from nearby Paso Robles sites that have used their clones, so the wine is 'related' to their estate grown wines. Primarily Grenache Blanc and Viognier, with splashes of Roussanne, Marsanne, Vermentino and Bourboulenc, the nose is fresh and citrusy with mostly warm peach and orange blossom from the Grenache, but touches of floweriness coming through from the Viognier and others. The palate is round and fresh, juicy in texture without any want or need for oak being involved, with little tingles of minerality from the Vermentino and Bourboulenc that kick the fruits into a more zesty place. Plenty of body to take the place at the dinner table as a Chardonnay alternative, worthy of most any Summertime cookout foods or seafood dishes.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
October 2025
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